International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

A methodology of selecting a suitable garment for sports use : Table of Contents

N. Martínez, J.C. González, D. Rosa, E. Alcántara — Sun May 31 14:15:05 BST 2009

Abstract:
Purpose – Choosing the adequate garment for sports practice in adverse weather conditions, either cold or hot, is an aspect of great influence on activity performance. The purpose of this paper is to describe how the Institute of Biomechanics of Valencia has developed a methodology which allows assessing the fit of the garment to the real situation of use by evaluating its influence in the thermoregulatory response of the human body. Design/methodology/approach – Under controlled environmental conditions and at fixed activity levels, two shirts are tested in the laboratory. Eight subjects performed a test which consisted of six phases of different activity level in two conditions (25°C/50 percent RH and 10°C/60 percent RH). Throughout the test, physiological parameters of the thermal response as well as work load indicators are registered. Skin temperature at three different locations (chest, arm, and thigh), microclimate variables in some areas of subject-garment interface (in armpit and upper back) and heart rate are measured continuously. Six samples of sweat are also collected regularly from dorsal region during the test to estimate the sweating rate and the loss of salts. Weight loss is also checked before and after performing the test to estimate the dehydration level. Subjects will be asked during the test about humidity and temperature perception on the body as a whole or by different zones. The results allowed measuring a significant influence of the shirt in skin temperature. Therefore, the methodology developed for studying of the user-product interaction through the assessment of the thermophysiological response and the subjective perception allows recommending the comfort ranges for each piece of garment as well as indicating those work load and environmental conditions for which the influence of garment on user's performance is optimal. Findings – The user-product interaction through the assessment of the thermophysiological response and the subjective perception allows recommending the comfort ranges for each piece of garment as well as indicating those work load and environmental conditions for which the influence of garment on user's performance is optimal. Originality/value – Choosing a suitable garment for sports practice in adverse weather conditions, either cold or hot, is an aspect of great influence on activity performance and this paper presents new results.

New bioactive textile dressing materials from dibutyrylchitin : Table of Contents

Gustaaf Schoukens, Paul Kiekens, Izabella Krucinska — Sun May 31 14:15:05 BST 2009

Abstract:
Purpose – Dibutyrylchitin (DBC) is an ester derivative of a natural polysaccharide – chitin. DBC is obtained by reaction of chitin with butyric anhydride in the presence of a catalyst. The production methods of DBC have been elaborated and optimized. DBC is easily soluble in common organic solvents and has film – and fibre forming properties. Such characteristics allow obtaining classical fibres from the polymer solutions. DBC is also a raw material for manufacturing yarn and for a broad range of textile dressing materials. Fibres with good mechanical properties are obtained by an optimized spinning process from the DBC solutions. The purpose of this paper is to present a further optimization of the mechanical properties of DBC-fibres and yarns. Design/methodology/approach – The excellent biomedical properties of the DBC are confirmed by different experimental results which prove that DBC is a biocompatible and biodegradable polymer and stimulates regeneration of damaged tissues. Tests of these DBC dressing materials under clinical conditions prove the excellent results of DBC-based dressing materials for the ordered healing of tissues and wounds. The DBC dressing materials accelerate the healing of the wound and are biodegraded during the healing process. From the clinical tests, it can be clearly observed that the DBC dressing materials are absorbed into the fresh tissue formed during the healing process of the wounds. Findings – The DBC and DBC-based dressing materials are good bioactive textile materials for wound healing and for understanding the biological properties of chitin derivatives. The obtained results prove the importance of the O-substitution of the hydroxyl groups present in chitin, not only for the solubility of the derivatives and the mechanical properties of the produced fibres, but still more important for the biological properties of these ester derivatives of chitin containing butyric acid. This development creates a link between textile products, based on material properties and human health, based on the biological properties of the basic material. Originality/value – The mechanical properties of DBC are further optimized by blending it with poly(?-caprolactone). Good transparent and flexible products, such as films, with a high elongation to break are obtained by blending 10-20?wt per cent of poly(?-caprolactone) with DBC. This creates new possible bioactive applications for DBC or poly(?-caprolactone).

Surface modification and characterization of cotton and polyamide fabrics by plasma polymerization of hexamethyldisilane and hexamethyldisiloxane : Table of Contents

Bengi Kilic, Aysun Cireli Aksit, Mehmet Mutlu — Sun May 31 14:15:05 BST 2009

Abstract:
Purpose – Plasma polymerization is a very promising technique to produce functional textile materials for any textile end uses as well as for high performance clothing. It can be possible to obtain highly cross-linked, pinhole free and very thin polymer films up to 1?µm thickness with unique physical and chemical properties. These films can be used as very effective barriers. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the influences of plasma polymerization of hexamethyldisilane (HMDS) and hexamethyldisiloxane (HMDSO) on the surface properties of cotton and polyamide fabrics. Design/methodology/approach – The methodology is based on the surface modification of the cotton and polyamide fabrics by plasma polymerization of HMDS and HMDSO. The fabrics are modified by low pressure low temperature RF (radio frequency -13.56?MHz) plasma polymerization system under different power and time conditions. The changes in surface structure and morphology of the fabrics are investigated by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy-attenuated total reflectance (FTIR-ATR) analysis and atomic force microscopy (AFM). Findings – Water repellency of polyamide fabrics is strongly enhanced after plasma polymerization of both HMDS and HMDSO monomers. In addition to this, the treatments are found to slow down the vertical flame spread in cotton fabrics. Originality/value – Increased water repellency and decreased vertical flame spread are achieved using plasma polymerization technique in a very short time with very little amount of chemical and without water and auxiliary agent.

Electro-conductive sensors and heating elements based on conductive polymer composites : Table of Contents

V. Koncar, C. Cochrane, M. Lewandowski, F. Boussu, C. Dufour — Sun May 31 14:15:05 BST 2009

Abstract:
Purpose – The need for sensors and actuators is an important issue in the field of smart textiles and garments. Important developments in sensing and heating textile elements consist in using non-metallic yarns, for instance carbon containing fibres, directly in the textile fabric. Another solution is to use electro-conductive materials based on conductive polymer composites (CPCs) containing carbon or metallic particles. The purpose of this paper is to describe research based on the use of a carbon black polymer composite to design two electro-conductive elements: a strain sensor and a textile heating element. Design/methodology/approach – The composite is applied as a coating consisting of a solvent, a thermoplastic elastomer, and conductive carbon black nanoparticles. In both applications, the integration of the electrical wires for the voltage supply or signal recording is as discreet as possible. Findings – The CPC materials constitute a well-adapted solution for textile structures: they are very flexible, and thus do not modify the mechanical characteristics and general properties of the textile structure. Research limitations/implications – In the case of the heating element, the use of metallic yarns as electrodes makes the final structure a more rigid. This can be improved by choosing other conducting yarns that are more flexible, or by developing knitted structures instead of woven fabrics. Practical implications – The CPC provide a low cost solution, and the elements are usually designed so as to work with a low voltage supply. Originality/value – The CPC has been prepared with a solvent process which is especially adapted to flexible materials like textiles. This is original in comparison to the conventional melt-mixing process usually found in literature.

Characterization of conducting polymer coated fabrics at microwave frequencies : Table of Contents

Akif Kaynak, Eva Håkansson — Sun May 31 14:15:05 BST 2009

Abstract:
Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate microwave reflection, transmission, and complex permittivity of p-toluene-2-sulfonic acid doped conducting polypyrrole coated nylon-lycra textiles in the 1-18?GHz frequency with a view to potential applications in the interaction of electromagnetic radiation with such coated fabrics. Design/methodology/approach – The chemical polymerization of pyrrole is achieved by an oxidant, ferric chloride and doped with p-toluene sulfonic acid (pTSA) to enhance the conductivity and improve stability. Permittivity of the conducting textile substrates is performed using a free space transmission method accompanied by a mathematical diffraction reduction method. Findings – The real part of permittivity increases with polymerization time and dopant concentration, reaching a plateau at certain dopant concentration and polymerization time. The imaginary part of permittivity shows a frequency dependent change throughout the test range. All the samples have higher values of absorption than reflection. The total electromagnetic shielding effectiveness exceeds 80 percent for the highly pTSA doped samples coated for 3?h. Originality/value – A non-contact, non-destructive free space method thin flexible specimens to be tested with high accuracy across large frequency range. The non-destructive nature of the experiments enables investigation of the stability of the microwave transmission, reflection, absorption and complex permittivity values. Moreover, mathematical removal of the diffraction enables higher accuracy.

Heating behaviors of metallic textile structures : Table of Contents

Ozan Kayacan, Ender Yazgan Bulgun — Sun May 31 14:15:05 BST 2009

Abstract:
Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate the concept of “electrically conductive fabrics”. The primer applications that import electrical conductivity properties to textiles and clothing are summarized. Also the heated fabric panels produced by steel yarns are evaluated. Single and multi-ply steel fabrics are applied to electrical current and their heating behaviors are observed and compared. Design/methodology/approach – The integration of electronic components with textiles to create very smart structures is getting more and more attention in recent years. Most of the textile materials are electrical insulators. Hence, various types of fibers and fabrics having reasonably good electrical conductivity are required especially for electronically functional apparel products. The textile-based materials being flexible and easily workable are the most preferred one in such cases. In this study, the steel yarns are placed in the fabric construction owing to their flexible characteristics. The heating panels used in this study are produced by conventional textile processes and applied to electrical current. For this purpose, an electronic circuit that contains textile-based warming panels connected to a power supply, has been developed. Findings – The heated steel fabric panels with different number of plies provide different heating degree intervals owing to the different resistance levels, Therefore, in the applications of textile-based heating elements it is suggested that the electrical characterization of conductive materials should be examined and the materials that have the most appropriate electrical resistance characteristic must be applied. Furthermore, in the circuits used for heating function, the current amount depends on the electrical features of heating structures. Consequently, the pads with different plies have various efficient heating in point of time. It is recommended that the appropriate heating pad dimensions, ply or conductive yarn amounts and sufficient power supply conditions should be evaluated and chosen according to the desired heating level. Originality/value – Electrically conductive stainless steel yarns are processed to form a heating panel that can be used within an electronic circuit as a warming mechanism.

Recycled wool-based nonwoven material for decolorisation of dyehouse effluents : Table of Contents

Maja Radetic, Darinka Radojevic, Vesna Ilic, Darka Mihailovic, Petar Jovancic — Sun May 31 14:15:05 BST 2009

Abstract:
Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate the possible application of recycled wool-based nonwoven material (RWNM) for removal of different dyes that are used in textile dye houses. Design/methodology/approach – The sorption kinetics, the influence of initial dye concentration, pH and temperature are analyzed. Basic, reactive, direct and metal complex dyes are studied. Findings – The sorption properties are highly influenced by the type of the dye owing to differences in their chemical structure and thus, the mechanism of binding to wool. Modification of material with chitosan and hydrogen peroxide improves the sorption capacities and sorption rates but no general trend can be established. Consequently, the sorption behaviour is analyzed separately for each type of the dye. Originality/value – The results indicate that RWNM can be used as an efficient, low-cost sorbent for decolorisation of effluents.

The application of microcapsules of PCM in flame resistant non-woven materials : Table of Contents

Isabel Cardoso, Jaime Rocha Gomes — Sun May 31 14:15:05 BST 2009

Abstract:
Purpose – The use of organic phase change materials microcapsules (mPCM) has been gaining ground in technical textiles and clothing as a temperature regulating medium and hence a means of keeping the body at a comfortable temperature when wearing impermeable protective clothes. However, for such applications as fire fighter's protective clothes, the standards require that all the material composing the material be fire resistant. The purpose of this paper is to produce a lining containing fire resistant microcapsules of PCM without using flammable binders. Design/methodology/approach – This work tests other ways of fixing mPCM to the fibres with a lot less binder present. Washfastness is evaluated in SEM photographs and by weight. The thermal effect is evaluated in a prototype plate calorimeter. Findings – This method is first tested for fixing mPCM but the non-woven still does not pass the test according to the standard EN532. Microcapsules are alternatively fixed with MF resin, non-flammable, and by applying flame retardant recipes it is possible for the samples to pass the test. Research limitations/implications – Since the amount of flame retardant necessary for the mPCM to stand the test, and the resin to thermo fix it is very high, the material becomes unacceptably stiff. Originality/value – Based on a new approach where reactive microcapsules without any binder are used, it is possible to use a lot less flame retardant and resin, and the material is resistant to the standard EN532. In this standard the material has to resist washing and still be flame retardant.