Symbolism and Evolution of Ku-form in Chinese Costume

Abstract

Shang, (from which Qun evolved), came into being before Ku, and was used to cover the lower body. Combined with the upper garment Yi, Ku and Shang constituted a complete outfit in the traditional Chinese clothing system. This article briefly describes the development and evolution of Chinese Ku. It postulates that the opening and closing rise of Ku, was a metaphor for the spirit and the cultivation of Chinese literati. Qun, as a kind of lower cover, was actually unable to cover the body completely. Ku, the Chinese trousers for protection of legs, covered the lower limbs, but was not adopted by the Chinese literati in ancient times. Therefore, half-openness of the skirt and half-closeness of the rise of Ku, metaphorically representing half fantasy and half reality, were combined to complete the covering. This system for covering the body with a clothing combination that was partly open (thus exposing parts of the body) reveals an interesting aspect of Chinese traditional culture. Contemporary designers may find unique inspiration through the study of Chinese traditional clothing systems, for current fashion designs that have rich historical significance.

Citation

Xu, R. and Sparks, D. (2011), "Symbolism and Evolution of Ku-form in Chinese Costume", Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, Vol. 15 No. 1, pp. 11-21. https://doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-15-01-2011-B002