Roman cookery

Citation

(1999), "Roman cookery", Nutrition & Food Science, Vol. 99 No. 2. https://doi.org/10.1108/nfs.1999.01799baf.004

Roman cookery

Roman cookery

Archeologist Ian Meadows recently gave a talk on this topic to the Mid Nene Archeological Society. His main theme was that the contribution of the Romans to food in Britain was remarkable. They introduced game birds such as pheasant and peacocks and herbs and seasonings such as mint, parsley, sage, shallots, onions and garlic. The Romans were great traders with India, Arabia and China. They introduced a variety of spices into their cooking as well as introducing the Britons to dates and olives and, of course, olive oil for cooking. Today we have an updated version of Apicius' cook book written by John Edwards so we can actually try out some of the Roman-style cookery.

Archeologists have learned a great deal about Roman cookery from their digs. Pollen from various plants, remains of bones from animals, even latrines with their pips and stones from fruit give a hint about the types of foods eaten by the Romans. The remains of Roman vineyards have also been revealed in south facing areas and we also know that the Romans brewed beer. They bottled their wine in pottery flasks. Other glass and pottery that has been unearthed showed that many Romans dined in style with fine tableware such as plates, bowls, jars, flasks and beakers. Cheese presses have also been discovered and the remains of large granaries to house grains. It appears that food was often used as payment and farmers would bring in produce to pay their taxes.

The meats the Romans ate ranged from ox and sheep to goats, pigs and horses. Smaller animals would be cooked whole, stuffed with a variety of sausages or black pudding. Every schoolchild knows that the Romans ate dormice but perhaps they do not know that the unfortunate rodents were kept alive in jars and fattened up on fruit and nuts until they were considered fit for eating, sprinkled with a little honey. Snails introduced by the Romans were also fattened up with bread and milk before being cooked in oil flavoured with garlic.

Fish and shellfish in particular were prized by the Romans and there is a record of oysters from Colchester being imported into Rome. The fish may have been dried, salted or smoked. Whale bones have shown us that this was also an item of diet though there is little evidence that whales were hunted at sea. It is more likely that the Romans ate the flesh of beached whales. Breads varied from coarse branny wholemeal fed to the slaves and people of no importance to fine white bread. Carbonised remains from Pompei showed that a soft cream cheese was sometimes incorporated into the finest loaves. Evidence from digs show that a donkey mill was sometimes used in which a donkey turned the massive mill stones. Soldiers received a daily ration of 3lb of corn with lard, bacon, lentils and sour wine. How they used the wheat remains something of a mystery.

Knives and spoons have been found in archeological sites but no forks, so it is assumed that Romans ate with their fingers if the food was suitable. Roman banquets have been described in classical literature and diners were entertained by orators, musicians and dancers.

What would they eat on such occasions? Perhaps venison seasoned with oregano, lovage and carraway mixed with pine nuts and served with a plum sauce. Nut omelettes were popular flavoured with ground nuts mixed with honey or seasoned with cinnamon and nutmeg. Lentils were another popular food served with leeks and chestnuts and a coriander sauce. Cakes may have been flavoured with rosemary, an unusual combination to our tastes. Sauces were all important and Apicius describes the preparation of a fish sauce that was widely used. Vegetables would be seasoned with herbs and spices.

Roman Cookery of Apicius by John Edwards and published by Rider is available from many historical sites and stately homes open to the public. It is certainly of great interest and will encourage more experimentation in the kitchen as well as providing a history lesson in food. With the current interest in ethnic food and the search for something that is different to serve to guests, why not give Roman cookery a chance in your own kitchen?