International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

Purpose – The generation of individually fit basic garment pattern is one of the most important steps in the garment-manufacturing process. This paper seeks to present a new methodology to generate basic patterns of various sizes and styles using three-dimensional geometric modeling method.

Design/methodology/approach – The geometry of a garment is divided into fit zone and fashion zone. The geometry of fit zone is prepared from 3D body scan data and can be resized parametrically. The fashion zone is modeled using various parameters characterizing the aesthetic appearance of garments. Finally, the 3D garment model is projected into corresponding flat panels considering the physical properties of the base material as well as the producibility of the garment.

Findings – The main findings were geometric modeling and flat pattern generation method for various garments.

Originality/value – Parametrically deformable garment models enable the design of garments with various size and silhouette so that designers can obtain flat patterns of complex garments before actually making them. Also the number and direction of darts can be determined automatically considering the physical property of fabric.