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Journal cover: International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

ISSN: 0955-6222

Online from: 1989

Subject Area: Mechanical & Materials Engineering

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A new method of ease allowance generation for personalization of garment design


Document Information:
Title:A new method of ease allowance generation for personalization of garment design
Author(s):Yu Chen, (Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts & Industries Textiles, Roubaix, France), Xianyi Zeng, (Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts & Industries Textiles, Roubaix, France), Michel Happiette, (Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts & Industries Textiles, Roubaix, France), Pascal Bruniaux, (Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts & Industries Textiles, Roubaix, France), Royer Ng, (Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Kowloon, Hong Kong, People' Republic of China), Winnie Yu, (Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Kowloon, Hong Kong, People' Republic of China)
Citation:Yu Chen, Xianyi Zeng, Michel Happiette, Pascal Bruniaux, Royer Ng, Winnie Yu, (2008) "A new method of ease allowance generation for personalization of garment design", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 20 Iss: 3, pp.161 - 173
Keywords:Clothing, Design, Fuzzy logic, Sensory perception
Article type:Research paper
DOI:10.1108/09556220810865210 (Permanent URL)
Publisher:Emerald Group Publishing Limited
Abstract:

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to present recent work for optimizing the estimation of ease allowance of a garment using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation.

Design/methodology/approach – The current method first generates a number of fuzzy models each corresponding to one specific key body part and one specific wearer's movement and then aggregates all the values of ease allowance generated from these fuzzy models using the ordered weighted averaging (OWA) operator. The aggregated ease allowance takes into account geometric measures on all representative human bodies, comfort sensations of wearers related to all movements or actions and different styles of trousers (tight, normal and loose). The weights of the OWA operator can be used to adjust the compromise between the style of garments and the comfort sensation of wearers. The related weights of the OWA operator are automatically determined according to designer's linguistic criteria characterizing the relationship between wearer's movements and the features of the garment to be designed.

Findings – Based on the optimized values of ease allowance generated from fuzzy models related to different key body positions and different wearer's movements, the authors obtain a personalized ease allowance, permitting to further improve the wearer's fitting perception of a garment. The effectiveness of the method has been validated in the design of trousers of jean type. It can also be applied for designing other types of garment.

Originality/value – Integration of wearer's body shapes and human comfort in the design of personalized garments.



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