Emerald | International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology | Table of Contents

INFLUENCE OF TERRY FABRICS STRUCTURE ON DYNAMIC SORPTION

Fri, 26 Jul 2013 00:00:00 +0100

Abstract

Purpose - To investigate the influence of some structural characteristics of terry fabrics on the rate of sorption.Design/methodology/approach - Fabrics are produced by changing the weft density and the pile height. An experimental stand for dynamic measurement of water sorption is created. The quantities of water absorbed by the fabric over time are determined. The sorption rates are calculated and discussed.Findings - The dynamics of the sorption process is assessed through the sorption curves presented. The sorption rates for the main sorption stages, as well the average rate for weft and warp direction, are calculated. Results are statistically worked out applying ANOVA. Appropriate conclusions about the influence of the investigated parameters on sorption process are made.Originality/value - Determination of the rates of water sorption for the particular time intervals and the average rates for the entire test period. Assessment of the infuence of the loop height and weft density on the sorption rates.

The Influence of Cold Mercerization on Comfort Properties of Summer Cotton Fabrics

Fri, 26 Jul 2013 00:00:00 +0100

Abstract

Purpose - Mercerization is one of the finishing treatments that often are used to improve the dye uptake properties and increase cotton fabrics luster. Since comfort is a necessity of clothing and customers desire it more than ever, the finishing treatments that improve some properties of the fabric, should not reduce clothing comfort. In this paper, the effect of cold mercerization on the comfort properties of cotton fabrics was investigated.Design/methodology/approach - A total of 15 woven fabric samples in different structures were randomly chosen. The samples were divided into two groups: the finished fabrics (i.e. those which were run through singing, desizing, and bleaching processes) and the mercerized fabrics (i.e. samples which underwent the singing, desizing, bleaching and mercerizing processes). The mechanical and thermo-physiological comfort properties of these two groups were evaluated and results were compared. Findings - The results showed that bending rigidity, shearing rigidity, air permeability, water vapour transmission and thermal resistance increased by cold mercerization. Moreover frictional restraint, extensibility and wicking decreased. In other words, mercerization can improve some comfort properties of cotton fabrics and weaken the others.Originality/value - The current literatures don't consider the effect of mercerization on the clothing comfort. The present work intends to evaluate the effect of cold mercerization on the mechanical (tactile) and thermo-physiological comfort properties of cotton fabrics which are used as summer clothing.

TOWARD ADVANCED THREE-DIMENSIONAL MODELING OF GARMENT PROTOTYPE FROM DRAPING TECHNIQUE

literatinetwork@emeraldinsight.com (Xuyuan TAO, Pascal BRUNIAUX) — Fri, 26 Jul 2013 00:00:00 +0100

Abstract

Purpose - The study in this article focuses on a novel desgin concept of virtual 3D garment which is realized with the help of traditional patternmaking methodology and the CAD softwares in order to directly conceive the virtual clothing on a mannequin morphotype in cyberspace in consideration of the ease allowance between the body shape and the garment.Design/methodology/approach - The method of acquisition of 3D human body was explained at first. Then the process of creation of garment 3D model associated with the draping technique was presented. The superposition of patterns from the 3D modeling and the traditional method used in industries was done in order to visualize the right results. At last, the dynamic validation of our garment was carried out in order to analyze the fitting results of try-on simulation.Findings - The 3D modeling technique method based on the draping technique shows that the garment fits perfectly to the body shape of wearer.Originality/value - The originality of this article comes from the combination of the traditionnal draping technique with the advanced CAD softwares in consideration of the fitting and draping of garment. This concept is used not only in the context of mass customized product but also in mass production for the ready-to-wear apperal industries. The patterns are directly adjusted in 3D and can immediately be tried on in 3D simulation. As a result, the process in 2D patternmaking design can be eliminated.

THERMOMECHANICAL ANALYSIS OF VEHICLES GRAY IRON BRAKE DISCS

literatinetwork@emeraldinsight.com (ali belhocine) — Fri, 26 Jul 2013 00:00:00 +0100

Abstract

Purpose - main purpose of this study is to analysis the thermomechanical behavior of the dry contact between the brake disc and pads during the braking phase. The simulation strategy is based on computer code ANSYS11. The modeling of transient temperature in the disc is actually used to identify the factor of geometric design of the disk to install the ventilation system in vehicles. The thermal-structural analysis is then used coupling to determine the deformation and the Von Mises stress established in the disc, the contact pressure distribution in pads. The results are satisfactory when compared with those of the specialized literature.Design/methodology/approach - main purpose of this study is to analysis the thermomechanical behavior of the dry contact between the brake disc and pads during the braking phase. The simulation strategy is based on computer code ANSYS11. The modeling of transient temperature in the disc is actually used to identify the factor of geometric design of the disk to install the ventilation system in vehicles. The thermal-structural analysis is then used coupling to determine the deformation and the Von Mises stress established in the disc, the contact pressure distribution in pads. The results are satisfactory when compared with those of the specialized literature.Findings - The main purpose of this study is to analysis the thermomechanical behavior of the dry contact between the brake disc and pads during the braking phase. The simulation strategy is based on computer code ANSYS11. The modeling of transient temperature in the disc is actually used to identify the factor of geometric design of the disk to install the ventilation system in vehicles. The thermal-structural analysis is then used coupling to determine the deformation and the Von Mises stress established in the disc, the contact pressure distribution in pads. The results are satisfactory when compared with those of the specialized literature.Research limitations/implications - The main purpose of this study is to analysis the thermomechanical behavior of the dry contact between the brake disc and pads during the braking phase. The simulation strategy is based on computer code ANSYS11. The modeling of transient temperature in the disc is actually used to identify the factor of geometric design of the disk to install the ventilation system in vehicles. The thermal-structural analysis is then used coupling to determine the deformation and the Von Mises stress established in the disc, contact pressure distribution in pads. The results are satisfactory when compared with those of the specialized literature.Practical implications - The main purpose of this study is to analysis the thermomechanical behavior of the dry contact between the brake disc and pads during the braking phase. The simulation strategy is based on code ANSYS11. The modeling of transient temperature in the disc is actually used to identify the factor of geometric design of the disk to install the ventilation system in vehicles. The thermal-structural analysis is then used coupling to determine the deformation and the Von Mises stress established in the disc, the contact pressure distribution in pads. The results are satisfactory when compared with those of the specialized literature.Originality/value - The main purpose of this study is to analysis the thermomechanical behavior of the dry contact between the brake disc and pads during the braking phase. The simulation strategy is based on code ANSYS11. The modeling of transient temperature in the disc is actually used to identify the factor of geometric design of the disk to install the ventilation system in vehicles. The thermal-structural analysis is then used coupling to determine the deformation and the Von Mises stress established in the disc, the contact pressure distribution in pads. The results are satisfactory when compared with those of the specialized literature.

A Novel Apparel Surface Flattening Algorithm

literatinetwork@emeraldinsight.com (Meiling Zhuang, Xiaofeng Zhang) — Fri, 26 Jul 2013 00:00:00 +0100

Abstract

Purpose - In the trend of individuation and customization, more rapidly and flexible clothing pattern production systems are required. Many studies about the system have been done into producing paper pattern automatically for sewing. The purpose of this paper is to propose a novel three dimensional intelligent pattern-making algorithm.Design/methodology/approach - Body features are referenced for crack designing, the concept of functional dividing is proposed on the triangled upper body surface based on Gauss Curvature. A new surface flattening algorithm based on body features(SFABF) is put forward. Robert Hooke Law and Young’s modulus are referenced for energy model(EMRY) setting up to define and calculate the edge length variation of triangle. Basing on EMRY, another optimizing surface flattening algorithm(OSFA) is designed to optimize SFABF so as to minimize the accumulated energy. Findings - Shape variation accumulation of flattened pattern can be reduced a lot when the crack are distributed along functional dividing lines. The points with the largest Gauss Curvature as Bust Point have played great role on shape variation reduction. Because of textiles’ flexibility shape variation need not be reduced to zero. Comparing with the related methods this research is more practical. Originality/value - To this study, SFABF and OSFA are novel methods to improve practicality. The proposed concept of functional dividing is value to the shape variation reduction from surface flattening.

Event-based Cooperative Control of a High-Speed Bar-Tacking Sewing Machine

literatinetwork@emeraldinsight.com (xiaohui xie, cui ma, ruxu du, qiang sun) — Fri, 26 Jul 2013 00:00:00 +0100

Abstract

Purpose - Bar-tacking is a specialized sewing stitch designed to provide immense tensile strength to the garment which requires high-speed precision bar-tacking sewing machine. This paper presents an event-driven multi-axis cooperative control method for a bar-tacking sewing machine.Design/methodology/approach - The control method consists of two parts: the multi-axis cooperative control and the needle stop positioning control. The challenges include the high speed and the precision. For example, the needle must stop at a set position in milliseconds.Findings - The presented multi-axis cooperative control can ensure the high speed response and the precision of the cooperative control. The needle stop positioning control is based on a combination of the velocity control and the position control with velocity feed-forward and limitation.Research limitations/implications - The designed bar-tacking sewing machine requires high-speed start and stop response and coordination of displacement and velocity only at some given points. Therefore, the conventional multi-axis cooperative control methods are not suitable. In addition, it requires high-speed precision control under varying loading conditions.Practical implications - While there are a number of commercial textile machines available in the market, design a smart bar-tacking sewing machine with good speed and precision performance remains a challenge.Originality/value - The bar-tacking sewing machine requires highly accurate multi-axes cooperative control. The presented event-driven multi-axis control method is effective. It has not only the required high accuracy but also the fast time response.