International Journal of Clothing Science and TechnologyTable of Contents for International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology. List of articles from the current issue, including Just Accepted (EarlyCite)https://www.emerald.com/insight/publication/issn/0955-6222/vol/36/iss/1?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestInternational Journal of Clothing Science and TechnologyEmerald Publishing LimitedInternational Journal of Clothing Science and TechnologyInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyhttps://www.emerald.com/insight/proxy/containerImg?link=/resource/publication/journal/8ca8fe2626b5077bd15801be5881cc21/urn:emeraldgroup.com:asset:id:binary:ijcst.cover.jpghttps://www.emerald.com/insight/publication/issn/0955-6222/vol/36/iss/1?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestIdentifying leather type and authenticity by optical coherence tomographyhttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-11-2022-0159/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestThis study aims to identify leather type and authenticity through optical coherence tomography. Optical coherence tomography images taken from genuine and faux leather samples were used to create an image dataset, and automated machine learning algorithms were also used to distinguish leather types. The optical coherence tomography scan results in a different image based on leather type. This information was used to determine the leather type correctly by optical coherence tomography and automatic machine learning algorithms. Please note that this system also recognized whether the leather was genuine or synthetic. Hence, this demonstrates that optical coherence tomography and automatic machine learning can be used to distinguish leather type and determine whether it is genuine. For the first time to the best of the authors' knowledge, spectral-domain optical coherence tomography and automated machine learning algorithms were applied to identify leather authenticity in a noncontact and non-invasive manner. Since this model runs online, it can readily be employed in automated quality monitoring systems in the leather industry. With recent technological progress, optical coherence tomography combined with automated machine learning algorithms will be used more frequently in automatic authentication and identification systems.Identifying leather type and authenticity by optical coherence tomography
Metin Sabuncu, Hakan Özdemir
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 36, No. 1, pp.1-16

This study aims to identify leather type and authenticity through optical coherence tomography.

Optical coherence tomography images taken from genuine and faux leather samples were used to create an image dataset, and automated machine learning algorithms were also used to distinguish leather types.

The optical coherence tomography scan results in a different image based on leather type. This information was used to determine the leather type correctly by optical coherence tomography and automatic machine learning algorithms. Please note that this system also recognized whether the leather was genuine or synthetic. Hence, this demonstrates that optical coherence tomography and automatic machine learning can be used to distinguish leather type and determine whether it is genuine.

For the first time to the best of the authors' knowledge, spectral-domain optical coherence tomography and automated machine learning algorithms were applied to identify leather authenticity in a noncontact and non-invasive manner. Since this model runs online, it can readily be employed in automated quality monitoring systems in the leather industry. With recent technological progress, optical coherence tomography combined with automated machine learning algorithms will be used more frequently in automatic authentication and identification systems.

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Identifying leather type and authenticity by optical coherence tomography10.1108/IJCST-11-2022-0159International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2023-11-07© 2023 Emerald Publishing LimitedMetin SabuncuHakan ÖzdemirInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technology3612023-11-0710.1108/IJCST-11-2022-0159https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-11-2022-0159/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2023 Emerald Publishing Limited
Wearable real-time multi-health parameter monitoring systemhttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-04-2023-0054/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestThe purpose of this study is to design a wearable medical device as a human care platform and to introduce the design details, key technologies and practical implementation methods of the system. A multi-channel data acquisition scheme based on PCI-E (rapid interconnection of peripheral components) was proposed. The flexible biosensor is integrated with the flexible data acquisition card with monitoring capability, and the embedded (device that can operate independently) chip STM32F103VET6 is used to realize the simultaneous processing of multi-channel human health parameters. The human health parameters were transferred to the upper computer LabVIEW by intelligent clothing through USB or wireless Bluetooth to complete the transmission and processing of clinical data, which facilitates the analysis of medical data. The smart clothing provides a mobile medical cloud platform for wearable medical through cloud computing, which can continuously monitor the body's wrist movement, body temperature and perspiration for 24 h. The result shows that each channel is completely accurate to the top computer display, which can meet the expected requirements, and the wearable instant care system can be applied to healthcare. The smart clothing in this study is based on the monitoring and diagnosis of textiles, and the electronic communication devices can cooperate and interact to form a wearable textile system that provides medical monitoring and prevention services to individuals in the fastest and most accurate way. Each channel of the system is precisely matched to the display screen of the host computer and meets the expected requirements. As a real-time human health protection platform technology, continuous monitoring of human vital signs can complete the application of human motion detection, medical health monitoring and human–computer interaction. Ultimately, such an intelligent garment will become an integral part of our everyday clothing.Wearable real-time multi-health parameter monitoring system
WenFeng Qin, Yunsheng Xue, Hao Peng, Gang Li, Wang Chen, Xin Zhao, Jie Pang, Bin Zhou
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 36, No. 1, pp.17-33

The purpose of this study is to design a wearable medical device as a human care platform and to introduce the design details, key technologies and practical implementation methods of the system.

A multi-channel data acquisition scheme based on PCI-E (rapid interconnection of peripheral components) was proposed. The flexible biosensor is integrated with the flexible data acquisition card with monitoring capability, and the embedded (device that can operate independently) chip STM32F103VET6 is used to realize the simultaneous processing of multi-channel human health parameters. The human health parameters were transferred to the upper computer LabVIEW by intelligent clothing through USB or wireless Bluetooth to complete the transmission and processing of clinical data, which facilitates the analysis of medical data.

The smart clothing provides a mobile medical cloud platform for wearable medical through cloud computing, which can continuously monitor the body's wrist movement, body temperature and perspiration for 24 h. The result shows that each channel is completely accurate to the top computer display, which can meet the expected requirements, and the wearable instant care system can be applied to healthcare.

The smart clothing in this study is based on the monitoring and diagnosis of textiles, and the electronic communication devices can cooperate and interact to form a wearable textile system that provides medical monitoring and prevention services to individuals in the fastest and most accurate way. Each channel of the system is precisely matched to the display screen of the host computer and meets the expected requirements. As a real-time human health protection platform technology, continuous monitoring of human vital signs can complete the application of human motion detection, medical health monitoring and human–computer interaction. Ultimately, such an intelligent garment will become an integral part of our everyday clothing.

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Wearable real-time multi-health parameter monitoring system10.1108/IJCST-04-2023-0054International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2023-10-24© 2023 Emerald Publishing LimitedWenFeng QinYunsheng XueHao PengGang LiWang ChenXin ZhaoJie PangBin ZhouInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technology3612023-10-2410.1108/IJCST-04-2023-0054https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-04-2023-0054/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2023 Emerald Publishing Limited
Optimization of ultrasonic welding parameters for better seam performancehttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-06-2023-0079/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestUltrasonic welding is an emerging apparel manufacturing technique. However, the applications are widely explored in the field of technical textiles, with less exploration in the apparel endues. The purpose of this study is to explore the application of ultrasonic welding in apparel by analyzing the impacts of different parameters. This study analyzed the influence of ultrasonic welding parameters, including pressure, welding speed and ultrasonic power on the seam performances (seam strength, seam bursting strength, seam thickness and seam stiffness). The parameters are optimized using Box–Behnken experimental design to achieve better seam performances. The properties of ultrasonic seams are influenced by welding and fabric properties. Ultrasonically welded seams showed better performances in the case of comfort properties of seams, whereas the functional properties are lesser compared to conventional seams. The findings of the research clearly outline the level of influence of different parameters on the performance of the ultrasonically welded seams in knitted fabrics, which can greatly help in applying ultrasonic welding manufacturing methods in apparel manufacturing.Optimization of ultrasonic welding parameters for better seam performance
S. Raja Balasaraswathi, Jonalee D. Bajpai
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 36, No. 1, pp.34-51

Ultrasonic welding is an emerging apparel manufacturing technique. However, the applications are widely explored in the field of technical textiles, with less exploration in the apparel endues. The purpose of this study is to explore the application of ultrasonic welding in apparel by analyzing the impacts of different parameters.

This study analyzed the influence of ultrasonic welding parameters, including pressure, welding speed and ultrasonic power on the seam performances (seam strength, seam bursting strength, seam thickness and seam stiffness). The parameters are optimized using Box–Behnken experimental design to achieve better seam performances.

The properties of ultrasonic seams are influenced by welding and fabric properties. Ultrasonically welded seams showed better performances in the case of comfort properties of seams, whereas the functional properties are lesser compared to conventional seams.

The findings of the research clearly outline the level of influence of different parameters on the performance of the ultrasonically welded seams in knitted fabrics, which can greatly help in applying ultrasonic welding manufacturing methods in apparel manufacturing.

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Optimization of ultrasonic welding parameters for better seam performance10.1108/IJCST-06-2023-0079International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2023-11-14© 2023 Emerald Publishing LimitedS. Raja BalasaraswathiJonalee D. BajpaiInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technology3612023-11-1410.1108/IJCST-06-2023-0079https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-06-2023-0079/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2023 Emerald Publishing Limited
Aramid/alginate blended nonwoven fabrics: thermal degradation properties, flame-retardant mechanism and smoke suppressionhttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-04-2023-0063/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestIn this paper the aim is that Aramid/alginate blended nonwoven fabrics were prepared, and the flame retardancy of the blended nonwoven fabrics was studied by thermogravimetric analysis, vertical flame test, limiting oxygen index (LOI) and cone calorimeter test. The advantages of different fibers can be combined by blending, and the defects may be remedied. The study investigates whether incorporating alginate fibers into aramid fibers can enhance the flame retardancy and reduce the smoke production of prepared aramid/alginate blended nonwoven fabrics. Thermogravimetric analysis indicated that alginate fibers could effectively inhibit the combustion performance of aramid fibers at a higher temperature zone, leaving more residual chars for heat isolation. And vertical flame test, LOI and cone calorimeter test testified that the incorporation of alginate fibers improved the flame retardancy and fire behaviors. When the ratio of alginate fibers for aramid/alginate blended nonwoven fabrics reached 80%, the incorporation of alginate fibers could notably decreased peak-heat release rate (54%), total heat release (THR) (29%), peak-smoke production rate (93%) and total smoke production (86%). What is more, the lower smoke production rate and lower THR of the blends vastly reduced the risk of secondary injury in fires. This study proposes to inhibit the flue gas release of aramid fiber and enhance the flame retardant by mixing with alginate fiber, and proposes that alginate fiber can be used as a biological smoke inhibitor, as well as a flame retardant for aramid fiber.Aramid/alginate blended nonwoven fabrics: thermal degradation properties, flame-retardant mechanism and smoke suppression
Yuan Li, Yanzhi Xia, Min Li, Jinchi Liu, Miao Yu, Yutian Li
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 36, No. 1, pp.52-67

In this paper the aim is that Aramid/alginate blended nonwoven fabrics were prepared, and the flame retardancy of the blended nonwoven fabrics was studied by thermogravimetric analysis, vertical flame test, limiting oxygen index (LOI) and cone calorimeter test.

The advantages of different fibers can be combined by blending, and the defects may be remedied. The study investigates whether incorporating alginate fibers into aramid fibers can enhance the flame retardancy and reduce the smoke production of prepared aramid/alginate blended nonwoven fabrics.

Thermogravimetric analysis indicated that alginate fibers could effectively inhibit the combustion performance of aramid fibers at a higher temperature zone, leaving more residual chars for heat isolation. And vertical flame test, LOI and cone calorimeter test testified that the incorporation of alginate fibers improved the flame retardancy and fire behaviors. When the ratio of alginate fibers for aramid/alginate blended nonwoven fabrics reached 80%, the incorporation of alginate fibers could notably decreased peak-heat release rate (54%), total heat release (THR) (29%), peak-smoke production rate (93%) and total smoke production (86%). What is more, the lower smoke production rate and lower THR of the blends vastly reduced the risk of secondary injury in fires.

This study proposes to inhibit the flue gas release of aramid fiber and enhance the flame retardant by mixing with alginate fiber, and proposes that alginate fiber can be used as a biological smoke inhibitor, as well as a flame retardant for aramid fiber.

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Aramid/alginate blended nonwoven fabrics: thermal degradation properties, flame-retardant mechanism and smoke suppression10.1108/IJCST-04-2023-0063International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2023-12-05© 2023 Emerald Publishing LimitedYuan LiYanzhi XiaMin LiJinchi LiuMiao YuYutian LiInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technology3612023-12-0510.1108/IJCST-04-2023-0063https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-04-2023-0063/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2023 Emerald Publishing Limited
Explorations of clothing-typed wearable platforms: satisfaction evaluations and displacement measurementshttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-10-2022-0151/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestAn increasing aging population and an increasing number of people suffering from musculoskeletal disorders have increased the demand for wearable robots. Comfortable, wearable robots that can be worn like clothing are currently being investigated. However, the embedded components may be displaced owing to the flexibility of the fabrics, which can lower the sensing accuracy and limit natural body movements. This study aims to develop clothing-type wearable platforms to minimize the displacement of embedded components such as sensors and actuators while maintaining comfort. Four designs were developed using materials with different seam lines, that can serve as anchoring details, and flatlock stitches considering body movements and musculoskeletal structures. The wear evaluation experiment was filmed using a speed camera and analyzed using the TimeViewer software and SPSS 26.0. Based on these results, four clothing-type wearable platform designs were developed. The variation in the location of a point in the armhole among the designs was marginal. Participants were satisfied with the functionality, practicality, wearability, efficiency and ease of use of the developed designs. A final clothing-type wearable platform was developed by applying a design with the least change in location, a suitable design for each area and wear comfort. The results of this study contribute to the development of wearable robots by establishing clothing design data to minimize changes in sensor and actuator movements.Explorations of clothing-typed wearable platforms: satisfaction evaluations and displacement measurements
Jiaoli Piao, Yehyoun Kim, Ru Han, Darinka Popov, Sumin Koo
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 36, No. 1, pp.68-83

An increasing aging population and an increasing number of people suffering from musculoskeletal disorders have increased the demand for wearable robots. Comfortable, wearable robots that can be worn like clothing are currently being investigated. However, the embedded components may be displaced owing to the flexibility of the fabrics, which can lower the sensing accuracy and limit natural body movements. This study aims to develop clothing-type wearable platforms to minimize the displacement of embedded components such as sensors and actuators while maintaining comfort.

Four designs were developed using materials with different seam lines, that can serve as anchoring details, and flatlock stitches considering body movements and musculoskeletal structures. The wear evaluation experiment was filmed using a speed camera and analyzed using the TimeViewer software and SPSS 26.0. Based on these results, four clothing-type wearable platform designs were developed.

The variation in the location of a point in the armhole among the designs was marginal. Participants were satisfied with the functionality, practicality, wearability, efficiency and ease of use of the developed designs. A final clothing-type wearable platform was developed by applying a design with the least change in location, a suitable design for each area and wear comfort.

The results of this study contribute to the development of wearable robots by establishing clothing design data to minimize changes in sensor and actuator movements.

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Explorations of clothing-typed wearable platforms: satisfaction evaluations and displacement measurements10.1108/IJCST-10-2022-0151International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2023-12-12© 2023 Emerald Publishing LimitedJiaoli PiaoYehyoun KimRu HanDarinka PopovSumin KooInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technology3612023-12-1210.1108/IJCST-10-2022-0151https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-10-2022-0151/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2023 Emerald Publishing Limited
The effect of bra design on wearing appearancehttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-08-2022-0117/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestEsthetic trend changes with the development of society and cultural differences. A minimizer bra designed to make breasts appear smaller is now popular with large-breasted women in China. To conform to the requirements of modern aesthetics in China, this paper aims to investigate vital features of breast appearance that influence people’s subjective evaluation of breast size and analyze how bra design parameters affect breast shape and make breasts appear smaller. This study used 3D scanning technology and reverse engineering software to obtain objective breast measurements in detail. A subjective evaluation experiment was conducted to evaluate the overall performance of seven minimizer bras compared to a basic comparison bra. Around 20 design parameters of 8 sample bras were identified to make a further study about the correlation between bra design features and breast shaping effect. To gain a deeper understanding of how bras interact with breast tissue, this study presented heat maps of the breast surface to visualize the deformation of breast shape. Nine breasts' characteristics, such as the distance between bust points, breast depth, outer breast curvature and slope, etc. have been determined to be highly correlated with the visual reduction effect of breasts. In addition, for the bras in this experiment, the high-performance bra for women with large breasts tends to have a wider side panel, a wider under band, higher gore and a stronger transverse rigidity of the bra cup. According to the observation of heat maps of the breast surface, soft full-figure bras provide a wider range of compression to the breasts and effectively flatten the breasts. This paper first aimed at the need to shape the ideal breast appearance for large-breasted women and make a further study of several hot-selling minimizer bras in China. The suggestions given in this paper help lingerie manufacturers better understand how design features of bras can affect their shaping effect and improve the wearing effect of minimizer bras for large-breasted women.The effect of bra design on wearing appearance
Yilun Wang, Xiaofen Ji, Chen Pang, Lina Zhai
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 36, No. 1, pp.84-101

Esthetic trend changes with the development of society and cultural differences. A minimizer bra designed to make breasts appear smaller is now popular with large-breasted women in China. To conform to the requirements of modern aesthetics in China, this paper aims to investigate vital features of breast appearance that influence people’s subjective evaluation of breast size and analyze how bra design parameters affect breast shape and make breasts appear smaller.

This study used 3D scanning technology and reverse engineering software to obtain objective breast measurements in detail. A subjective evaluation experiment was conducted to evaluate the overall performance of seven minimizer bras compared to a basic comparison bra. Around 20 design parameters of 8 sample bras were identified to make a further study about the correlation between bra design features and breast shaping effect. To gain a deeper understanding of how bras interact with breast tissue, this study presented heat maps of the breast surface to visualize the deformation of breast shape.

Nine breasts' characteristics, such as the distance between bust points, breast depth, outer breast curvature and slope, etc. have been determined to be highly correlated with the visual reduction effect of breasts. In addition, for the bras in this experiment, the high-performance bra for women with large breasts tends to have a wider side panel, a wider under band, higher gore and a stronger transverse rigidity of the bra cup. According to the observation of heat maps of the breast surface, soft full-figure bras provide a wider range of compression to the breasts and effectively flatten the breasts.

This paper first aimed at the need to shape the ideal breast appearance for large-breasted women and make a further study of several hot-selling minimizer bras in China. The suggestions given in this paper help lingerie manufacturers better understand how design features of bras can affect their shaping effect and improve the wearing effect of minimizer bras for large-breasted women.

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The effect of bra design on wearing appearance10.1108/IJCST-08-2022-0117International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-01-22© 2023 Emerald Publishing LimitedYilun WangXiaofen JiChen PangLina ZhaiInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technology3612024-01-2210.1108/IJCST-08-2022-0117https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-08-2022-0117/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2023 Emerald Publishing Limited
A review of parametric clothing pattern CAD software methodologyhttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-01-2023-0002/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestThe main issue in the mass customization of apparel products is how to efficiently produce products of various sizes. A parametric pattern-making system is one of the notable ways to rectify this issue, but there is a lack of information on the parametric design itself and its application to the apparel industry. This study compares and analyzes three types of parametric clothing pattern CAD (P-CAD) software currently in use to identify the characteristics of each, and suggest a basic guideline for efficient and adaptable P-CAD software in the apparel industry. This study compared three different types of P-CAD software with different characteristics: SuperALPHA: PLUS(as known as YUKA), GRAFIS and Seamly2D. The authors analyzed the types and management methodologies of each software, according to the three essential components that refer to previous studies about parametric design systems: entities, constraints and parameters. The results demonstrated the advantages and disadvantages of methodology in terms of three essential components of each software. Based on the results, the authors proposed five strategies for P-CAD development that can be applied to the mass customization of clothing. This study is meaningful in that it consolidates and organizes information about P-CAD software that has previously been scattered. The framework used in this study has an academic value suggesting guidelines to analyze P-CAD systems.A review of parametric clothing pattern CAD software methodology
Ah Lam Lee, Hyunsook Han
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 36, No. 1, pp.102-116

The main issue in the mass customization of apparel products is how to efficiently produce products of various sizes. A parametric pattern-making system is one of the notable ways to rectify this issue, but there is a lack of information on the parametric design itself and its application to the apparel industry. This study compares and analyzes three types of parametric clothing pattern CAD (P-CAD) software currently in use to identify the characteristics of each, and suggest a basic guideline for efficient and adaptable P-CAD software in the apparel industry.

This study compared three different types of P-CAD software with different characteristics: SuperALPHA: PLUS(as known as YUKA), GRAFIS and Seamly2D. The authors analyzed the types and management methodologies of each software, according to the three essential components that refer to previous studies about parametric design systems: entities, constraints and parameters.

The results demonstrated the advantages and disadvantages of methodology in terms of three essential components of each software. Based on the results, the authors proposed five strategies for P-CAD development that can be applied to the mass customization of clothing.

This study is meaningful in that it consolidates and organizes information about P-CAD software that has previously been scattered. The framework used in this study has an academic value suggesting guidelines to analyze P-CAD systems.

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A review of parametric clothing pattern CAD software methodology10.1108/IJCST-01-2023-0002International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-01-05© 2023 Emerald Publishing LimitedAh Lam LeeHyunsook HanInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technology3612024-01-0510.1108/IJCST-01-2023-0002https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-01-2023-0002/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2023 Emerald Publishing Limited
Three-dimensional simulation based on mesh modelling for warp-knitted fully-formed garmentshttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-09-2021-0122/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestThe warp-knitted fully-formed shorts are one kind of fully-formed garments knitted by a double-needle bar machine, which is widely used in the medical field. Because of its distinctive forming method, designers are unable to grasp the final effect of the product accurately during the design process. The purpose of this paper is to clarify a visible 3D simulation method in the design process along with the knitting method and structure characteristics, which is reflected in the final product effect. This study introduces a simulation process for warp-knitted fully-formed fabric from an input 3D surface model group. Stitch mesh models are established according to the garment structure and the triangle index of the garment model that swchape-controlling points belong to is calculated. The garment model group includes a 2D plate and a 3D model, between which there is a space coordinate transformation relationship. The study makes use of the 3D tubes to connect the coordinate points in order and render the tubes in real yarn colors. The effects of two parameters, radial segment and tubular segment, are analyzed and decided to obtain a fine surface within a reasonable rendering time. A stereoscopic simulation process from flat fabric to 3D product is realized using computer graphics technology. The warp-knitted fully-formed short is shown during the design process within a short time by setting the rendering parameters of tubular segments (ts = 125) and radial segments (rs = 6). Visual simulation for the shorts provides a time-saving and resource-saving method for structure design and parameter modification before knitting. There is no need to knit samples repeatedly to satisfy demand, which indicates that it is a saver of time and resources.Three-dimensional simulation based on mesh modelling for warp-knitted fully-formed garments
Haisang Liu, Gaoming Jiang, Zhijia Dong
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 36, No. 1, pp.117-131

The warp-knitted fully-formed shorts are one kind of fully-formed garments knitted by a double-needle bar machine, which is widely used in the medical field. Because of its distinctive forming method, designers are unable to grasp the final effect of the product accurately during the design process. The purpose of this paper is to clarify a visible 3D simulation method in the design process along with the knitting method and structure characteristics, which is reflected in the final product effect.

This study introduces a simulation process for warp-knitted fully-formed fabric from an input 3D surface model group. Stitch mesh models are established according to the garment structure and the triangle index of the garment model that swchape-controlling points belong to is calculated. The garment model group includes a 2D plate and a 3D model, between which there is a space coordinate transformation relationship. The study makes use of the 3D tubes to connect the coordinate points in order and render the tubes in real yarn colors. The effects of two parameters, radial segment and tubular segment, are analyzed and decided to obtain a fine surface within a reasonable rendering time.

A stereoscopic simulation process from flat fabric to 3D product is realized using computer graphics technology. The warp-knitted fully-formed short is shown during the design process within a short time by setting the rendering parameters of tubular segments (ts = 125) and radial segments (rs = 6).

Visual simulation for the shorts provides a time-saving and resource-saving method for structure design and parameter modification before knitting. There is no need to knit samples repeatedly to satisfy demand, which indicates that it is a saver of time and resources.

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Three-dimensional simulation based on mesh modelling for warp-knitted fully-formed garments10.1108/IJCST-09-2021-0122International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-01-02© 2023 Emerald Publishing LimitedHaisang LiuGaoming JiangZhijia DongInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technology3612024-01-0210.1108/IJCST-09-2021-0122https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-09-2021-0122/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2023 Emerald Publishing Limited
Developing a multifunctional wearable system consisting of a helmet and clothing for two-wheeled vehicle users' safety assistancehttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-07-2023-0096/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestThis study aims to develop a safe, wearable clothing system that combines visibility-enhancing and emergency–accident-responding functions for two-wheeled vehicle (TWV) users' safety assistance. First, the wearable system (WS) allowing users to control turn signals, brake lights and emergency flasher only with head movements was developed. Second, multiconnected systems were developed between WSs and a smartphone application (AS), providing accident occurrence recognition, driving photo capture–storage and emergency notification functions. Third, usability testing in each function was performed to assess the operability of the systems. The intuitive interface, which uses head movement as gesture commands, was effectively operated for controlling turn signals, brake lights and emergency flasher when driving, despite differences in user physique and boarding structure among TWVs. In addition, using Bluetooth low energy and Wi-Fi protocols simultaneously can establish automatic accident recognition–notification and driving photo capture–storage–display functions by linking two WSs with one AS. This study presents a case using relatively accessible technologies within the fashion industry to improve users' safety and provide fundamental data for convergence education for smart fashion products, highlighting the significance of this study in this convergence era. The WSs and the AS of a TWV user visually evoke the attention of other drivers and pedestrians, reducing the risk of accidents; social contribution regarding public safety will be possible by allowing the system to autonomously inform emergencies and receive emergency medical treatment quickly when the accident occurred.Developing a multifunctional wearable system consisting of a helmet and clothing for two-wheeled vehicle users' safety assistance
Younghwan Kim, Hyunseung Lee
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 36, No. 1, pp.132-152

This study aims to develop a safe, wearable clothing system that combines visibility-enhancing and emergency–accident-responding functions for two-wheeled vehicle (TWV) users' safety assistance.

First, the wearable system (WS) allowing users to control turn signals, brake lights and emergency flasher only with head movements was developed. Second, multiconnected systems were developed between WSs and a smartphone application (AS), providing accident occurrence recognition, driving photo capture–storage and emergency notification functions. Third, usability testing in each function was performed to assess the operability of the systems.

The intuitive interface, which uses head movement as gesture commands, was effectively operated for controlling turn signals, brake lights and emergency flasher when driving, despite differences in user physique and boarding structure among TWVs. In addition, using Bluetooth low energy and Wi-Fi protocols simultaneously can establish automatic accident recognition–notification and driving photo capture–storage–display functions by linking two WSs with one AS.

This study presents a case using relatively accessible technologies within the fashion industry to improve users' safety and provide fundamental data for convergence education for smart fashion products, highlighting the significance of this study in this convergence era.

The WSs and the AS of a TWV user visually evoke the attention of other drivers and pedestrians, reducing the risk of accidents; social contribution regarding public safety will be possible by allowing the system to autonomously inform emergencies and receive emergency medical treatment quickly when the accident occurred.

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Developing a multifunctional wearable system consisting of a helmet and clothing for two-wheeled vehicle users' safety assistance10.1108/IJCST-07-2023-0096International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2023-12-29© 2023 Emerald Publishing LimitedYounghwan KimHyunseung LeeInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technology3612023-12-2910.1108/IJCST-07-2023-0096https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-07-2023-0096/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2023 Emerald Publishing Limited
Visual assessment of fashion merchandising based on scene saliencyhttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-03-2022-0037/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestFashion merchandising hold a paramount position within the realm of retail marketing. Currently, the purpose of this article is that the assessment of display effectiveness predominantly relies on the subjective judgment of merchandisers due to the absence of an effective evaluation method. Although eye-tracking devices have found extensive used in tracking the gaze trajectory of subject, they exhibit limitations in terms of stability when applied to the evaluation of various scenes. This underscores the need for a dependable, user-friendly and objective assessment method. To develop a cost-effective and convenient evaluation method, the authors introduced an image processing framework for the assessment of variations in the impact of store furnishings. An optimized visual saliency methodology that leverages a multiscale pyramid model, incorporating color, brightness and orientation features, to construct a visual saliency heatmap. Additionally, the authors have established two pivotal evaluation indices aimed at quantifying attention coverage and dispersion. Specifically, bottom features are extract from 9 distinct scale images which are down sampled from merchandising photographs. Subsequently, these extracted features are amalgamated to form a heatmap, serving as the focal point of the evaluation process. The authors have proposed evaluation indices dedicated to measuring visual focus and dispersion, facilitating a precise quantification of attention distribution within the observed scenes. In comparison to conventional saliency algorithm, the optimization method yields more intuitive feedback regarding scene contrast. Moreover, the optimized approach results in a more concentrated focus within the central region of the visual field, a pattern in alignment with physiological research findings. The results affirm that the two defined indicators prove highly effective in discerning variations in visual attention across diverse brand store displays. The study introduces an intelligent and cost-effective objective evaluate method founded upon visual saliency. This pioneering approach not only effectively discerns the efficacy of merchandising efforts but also holds the potential for extension to the assessment of fashion advertisements, home design and website aesthetics.Visual assessment of fashion merchandising based on scene saliency
Huazhou He, Pinghua Xu, Jing Jia, Xiaowan Sun, Jingwen Cao
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 36, No. 1, pp.153-167

Fashion merchandising hold a paramount position within the realm of retail marketing. Currently, the purpose of this article is that the assessment of display effectiveness predominantly relies on the subjective judgment of merchandisers due to the absence of an effective evaluation method. Although eye-tracking devices have found extensive used in tracking the gaze trajectory of subject, they exhibit limitations in terms of stability when applied to the evaluation of various scenes. This underscores the need for a dependable, user-friendly and objective assessment method.

To develop a cost-effective and convenient evaluation method, the authors introduced an image processing framework for the assessment of variations in the impact of store furnishings. An optimized visual saliency methodology that leverages a multiscale pyramid model, incorporating color, brightness and orientation features, to construct a visual saliency heatmap. Additionally, the authors have established two pivotal evaluation indices aimed at quantifying attention coverage and dispersion. Specifically, bottom features are extract from 9 distinct scale images which are down sampled from merchandising photographs. Subsequently, these extracted features are amalgamated to form a heatmap, serving as the focal point of the evaluation process. The authors have proposed evaluation indices dedicated to measuring visual focus and dispersion, facilitating a precise quantification of attention distribution within the observed scenes.

In comparison to conventional saliency algorithm, the optimization method yields more intuitive feedback regarding scene contrast. Moreover, the optimized approach results in a more concentrated focus within the central region of the visual field, a pattern in alignment with physiological research findings. The results affirm that the two defined indicators prove highly effective in discerning variations in visual attention across diverse brand store displays.

The study introduces an intelligent and cost-effective objective evaluate method founded upon visual saliency. This pioneering approach not only effectively discerns the efficacy of merchandising efforts but also holds the potential for extension to the assessment of fashion advertisements, home design and website aesthetics.

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Visual assessment of fashion merchandising based on scene saliency10.1108/IJCST-03-2022-0037International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-01-18© 2023 Emerald Publishing LimitedHuazhou HePinghua XuJing JiaXiaowan SunJingwen CaoInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technology3612024-01-1810.1108/IJCST-03-2022-0037https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-03-2022-0037/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2023 Emerald Publishing Limited
A critical review of personal protective equipments in relation to pandemicshttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-08-2022-0116/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestPersonal Protective Equipment plays an inevitable part in the current scenario of pandemics in the world. A novel coronavirus, Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome-Corona Virus-2 (SARS-Cov 2), began as an outbreak of pneumonia in Wuhan, China, in late December 2019, and quickly spread worldwide. It quickly escalated into an international public health crisis. This opened up the high demand for the innovation and research of new materials in the Personal Protective Equipment industry. PubMed, Embase and Google Scholar were searched for relevant literature regarding personal protective equipment and the information was organized in a systematic way. There are no adequate number of studies taken up in the field of use of textiles in medical applications especially with PPEs. This structured review will generate a sense of the significance of using PPE for controlling pandemics and also awaken need for additional research and innovations in this area. The authorities of the management should take timely intervention in choosing the right material for their PPE in their hospitals. Hence health care professionals teams have an inevitable role in preventing the adverse environmental impact due to the inadvertent disposal of PPEs. There is a lack of systematic way of disposing contaminated single-use face masks in a safe, environmentally acceptable manner. The dumping of single-use PPE in domestic garbage has had an adverse effect on the environment. Mismanaged plastic waste endangers the health of ecosystems by polluting marine and terrestrial environments, posing a significant risk of ingestion or injury to animals and contaminating habitats. This review article provides an in-depth review of the use of different materials in PPE and challenges regarding its long-term use and implications on the environment.A critical review of personal protective equipments in relation to pandemics
Georgy Sunny, S. Lalkrishna, Jerin James, Sreejith Suprasannan
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 36, No. 1, pp.168-186

Personal Protective Equipment plays an inevitable part in the current scenario of pandemics in the world. A novel coronavirus, Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome-Corona Virus-2 (SARS-Cov 2), began as an outbreak of pneumonia in Wuhan, China, in late December 2019, and quickly spread worldwide. It quickly escalated into an international public health crisis. This opened up the high demand for the innovation and research of new materials in the Personal Protective Equipment industry.

PubMed, Embase and Google Scholar were searched for relevant literature regarding personal protective equipment and the information was organized in a systematic way.

There are no adequate number of studies taken up in the field of use of textiles in medical applications especially with PPEs.

This structured review will generate a sense of the significance of using PPE for controlling pandemics and also awaken need for additional research and innovations in this area.

The authorities of the management should take timely intervention in choosing the right material for their PPE in their hospitals. Hence health care professionals teams have an inevitable role in preventing the adverse environmental impact due to the inadvertent disposal of PPEs.

There is a lack of systematic way of disposing contaminated single-use face masks in a safe, environmentally acceptable manner. The dumping of single-use PPE in domestic garbage has had an adverse effect on the environment. Mismanaged plastic waste endangers the health of ecosystems by polluting marine and terrestrial environments, posing a significant risk of ingestion or injury to animals and contaminating habitats.

This review article provides an in-depth review of the use of different materials in PPE and challenges regarding its long-term use and implications on the environment.

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A critical review of personal protective equipments in relation to pandemics10.1108/IJCST-08-2022-0116International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-02-05© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedGeorgy SunnyS. LalkrishnaJerin JamesSreejith SuprasannanInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technology3612024-02-0510.1108/IJCST-08-2022-0116https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-08-2022-0116/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited
The rise of sustainable approaches in development of waterproof breathable fabrics for garment: a systematic literature reviewhttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-01-2024-0015/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestThe aim of this study is to present an overview of sustainable practices in the development of waterproof breathable fabrics for garments. It aims to provide insights into the current state of academic research in this domain and identify and analyze major sustainable trends in the field. This study conducts a thorough examination of research publications sourced from the Scopus database spanning the years 2013–2023 by employing a systematic approach. The research utilizes both descriptive analysis and content analysis to identify trends, notable journals and leading countries in sustainable waterproof breathable fabric development. The study reveals a notable increase in studies focusing on sustainable approaches in the development of waterproof breathable fabrics for garments. Descriptive analysis highlights the most prominent journal and leading country in terms of research volume. Content analysis identifies four key trends: minimizing chemical usage, developing easily degradable materials, creating fabrics promoting health and well-being and initiatives to reduce energy consumption. The main limitation of this research lies in its exclusive reliance on the Scopus database. The insights derived from this study offer practical guidance for prospective researchers interested in investigating sustainable approaches to developing waterproof breathable fabric for garments. The identified trends provide a foundation for aligning research endeavors with contemporary global perspectives, facilitating the integration of sustainable methodologies into the garment industry. This systematic literature review contributes original insights by synthesizing current research trends and outlining evolving sustainable practices in the development of waterproof breathable fabrics. The identification of key focus areas adds a novel perspective to existing knowledge.The rise of sustainable approaches in development of waterproof breathable fabrics for garment: a systematic literature review
Abhishek Kumar, Manpreet Manshahia
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print, pp.-

The aim of this study is to present an overview of sustainable practices in the development of waterproof breathable fabrics for garments. It aims to provide insights into the current state of academic research in this domain and identify and analyze major sustainable trends in the field.

This study conducts a thorough examination of research publications sourced from the Scopus database spanning the years 2013–2023 by employing a systematic approach. The research utilizes both descriptive analysis and content analysis to identify trends, notable journals and leading countries in sustainable waterproof breathable fabric development.

The study reveals a notable increase in studies focusing on sustainable approaches in the development of waterproof breathable fabrics for garments. Descriptive analysis highlights the most prominent journal and leading country in terms of research volume. Content analysis identifies four key trends: minimizing chemical usage, developing easily degradable materials, creating fabrics promoting health and well-being and initiatives to reduce energy consumption.

The main limitation of this research lies in its exclusive reliance on the Scopus database.

The insights derived from this study offer practical guidance for prospective researchers interested in investigating sustainable approaches to developing waterproof breathable fabric for garments. The identified trends provide a foundation for aligning research endeavors with contemporary global perspectives, facilitating the integration of sustainable methodologies into the garment industry.

This systematic literature review contributes original insights by synthesizing current research trends and outlining evolving sustainable practices in the development of waterproof breathable fabrics. The identification of key focus areas adds a novel perspective to existing knowledge.

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The rise of sustainable approaches in development of waterproof breathable fabrics for garment: a systematic literature review10.1108/IJCST-01-2024-0015International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-03-22© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedAbhishek KumarManpreet ManshahiaInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyahead-of-printahead-of-print2024-03-2210.1108/IJCST-01-2024-0015https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-01-2024-0015/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited
Developing a data-driven operational guide for the texturized yarn production process: data mining and intelligence approachhttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-03-2023-0032/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestThe textile industry holds immense significance in the economy of any nation, particularly in the production of synthetic yarn and fabrics. Consequently, the pursuit of acquiring high-quality products at a reduced cost has become a significant concern for countries. The primary objective of this research is to leverage data mining and data intelligence techniques to enhance and refine the production process of texturized yarn by developing an intelligent operating guide that enables the adjustment of production process parameters in the texturized yarn manufacturing process, based on the specifications of raw materials. This research undertook a systematic literature review to explore the various factors that influence yarn quality. Data mining techniques, including deep learning, K-nearest neighbor (KNN), decision tree, Naïve Bayes, support vector machine and VOTE, were employed to identify the most crucial factors. Subsequently, an executive and dynamic guide was developed utilizing data intelligence tools such as Power BI (Business Intelligence). The proposed model was then applied to the production process of a textile company in Iran 2020 to 2021. The results of this research highlight that the production process parameters exert a more significant influence on texturized yarn quality than the characteristics of raw materials. The executive production guide was designed by selecting the optimal combination of production process parameters, namely draw ratio, D/Y and primary temperature, with the incorporation of limiting indexes derived from the raw material characteristics to predict tenacity and elongation. This paper contributes by introducing a novel method for creating a dynamic guide. An intelligent and dynamic guide for tenacity and elongation in texturized yarn production was proposed, boasting an approximate accuracy rate of 80%. This developed guide is dynamic and seamlessly integrated with the production database. It undergoes regular updates every three months, incorporating the selected features of the process and raw materials, their respective thresholds, and the predicted levels of elongation and tenacity.Developing a data-driven operational guide for the texturized yarn production process: data mining and intelligence approach
Saba Sareminia, Zahra Ghayoumian, Fatemeh Haghighat
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print, pp.-

The textile industry holds immense significance in the economy of any nation, particularly in the production of synthetic yarn and fabrics. Consequently, the pursuit of acquiring high-quality products at a reduced cost has become a significant concern for countries. The primary objective of this research is to leverage data mining and data intelligence techniques to enhance and refine the production process of texturized yarn by developing an intelligent operating guide that enables the adjustment of production process parameters in the texturized yarn manufacturing process, based on the specifications of raw materials.

This research undertook a systematic literature review to explore the various factors that influence yarn quality. Data mining techniques, including deep learning, K-nearest neighbor (KNN), decision tree, Naïve Bayes, support vector machine and VOTE, were employed to identify the most crucial factors. Subsequently, an executive and dynamic guide was developed utilizing data intelligence tools such as Power BI (Business Intelligence). The proposed model was then applied to the production process of a textile company in Iran 2020 to 2021.

The results of this research highlight that the production process parameters exert a more significant influence on texturized yarn quality than the characteristics of raw materials. The executive production guide was designed by selecting the optimal combination of production process parameters, namely draw ratio, D/Y and primary temperature, with the incorporation of limiting indexes derived from the raw material characteristics to predict tenacity and elongation.

This paper contributes by introducing a novel method for creating a dynamic guide. An intelligent and dynamic guide for tenacity and elongation in texturized yarn production was proposed, boasting an approximate accuracy rate of 80%. This developed guide is dynamic and seamlessly integrated with the production database. It undergoes regular updates every three months, incorporating the selected features of the process and raw materials, their respective thresholds, and the predicted levels of elongation and tenacity.

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Developing a data-driven operational guide for the texturized yarn production process: data mining and intelligence approach10.1108/IJCST-03-2023-0032International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-02-20© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedSaba SareminiaZahra GhayoumianFatemeh HaghighatInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyahead-of-printahead-of-print2024-02-2010.1108/IJCST-03-2023-0032https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-03-2023-0032/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited
Evaluation of tactile sensation for fabric handle – evidence from event related potentialshttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-04-2023-0047/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestIn this paper, the brain potential changes caused by touching fabrics for handle evaluation were recorded by event related potential (ERP) method, compared with subjective evaluation scores and physical index of KES, explore the cognitive mechanism of the transformation of tactile sensation into neural impulses triggered by subtle mechanical stimuli such as material, texture, density and morphology in fabrics. By combining subjective evaluation of fabric tactile sensation, objective physical properties of fabrics and objective neurobiological signals, explore the neurophysiological mechanism of tactile cognition and the signal characteristics and time process of tactile information processing. The ERP technology was first proposed by a British psychologist named Grey Walter. It is an imaging technique of noninvasive brain cognition, whose potential changes are related to the human physical and mental activities. ERP is different from electroencephalography (EEG) and evoked potentials (EP) on the fact that it cannot only record stimulated physical information which is transmitted to brain, but also response to the psychological activities which related to attention, identification, comparison, memory, judgment and cognition as well as to human’s neural physiological changes which are caused by cognitive process of the feeling by stimulation. According to potential changes in the cerebral cortex evoked by touching four types of silk fabrics, human brain received the physical stimulation in the early stage (50 ms) of fabrics handle evaluation, and the P50 component amplitude showed negative correlation with fabric smoothness sensations. Around 200 ms after tactile stimulus onset, the amplitude of P200 component show positive correlation with the softness sensation of silk fabrics. The relationship between the amplitude of P300 and the sense of smoothness and softness need further evidence to proof. In this paper, the brain potential changes caused by touching fabrics for handle evaluation were recorded by event related potential (ERP) method, compared with subjective evaluation scores and physical index of KES, the results shown that the maximum amplitude of P50 component evoked by fabric touching is related to the fabrics’ smoothness and roughness emotion, which means in the early stage processing of tactile sensation, the rougher fabrics could arouse more attention. In addition, the amplitude of P200 component shows positive correlation with the softness sensation of silk fabrics.Evaluation of tactile sensation for fabric handle – evidence from event related potentials
Xiaoxia Zhang, Jin Zhang, Peiyan Du, Guohe Wang
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print, pp.-

In this paper, the brain potential changes caused by touching fabrics for handle evaluation were recorded by event related potential (ERP) method, compared with subjective evaluation scores and physical index of KES, explore the cognitive mechanism of the transformation of tactile sensation into neural impulses triggered by subtle mechanical stimuli such as material, texture, density and morphology in fabrics. By combining subjective evaluation of fabric tactile sensation, objective physical properties of fabrics and objective neurobiological signals, explore the neurophysiological mechanism of tactile cognition and the signal characteristics and time process of tactile information processing.

The ERP technology was first proposed by a British psychologist named Grey Walter. It is an imaging technique of noninvasive brain cognition, whose potential changes are related to the human physical and mental activities. ERP is different from electroencephalography (EEG) and evoked potentials (EP) on the fact that it cannot only record stimulated physical information which is transmitted to brain, but also response to the psychological activities which related to attention, identification, comparison, memory, judgment and cognition as well as to human’s neural physiological changes which are caused by cognitive process of the feeling by stimulation.

According to potential changes in the cerebral cortex evoked by touching four types of silk fabrics, human brain received the physical stimulation in the early stage (50 ms) of fabrics handle evaluation, and the P50 component amplitude showed negative correlation with fabric smoothness sensations. Around 200 ms after tactile stimulus onset, the amplitude of P200 component show positive correlation with the softness sensation of silk fabrics. The relationship between the amplitude of P300 and the sense of smoothness and softness need further evidence to proof.

In this paper, the brain potential changes caused by touching fabrics for handle evaluation were recorded by event related potential (ERP) method, compared with subjective evaluation scores and physical index of KES, the results shown that the maximum amplitude of P50 component evoked by fabric touching is related to the fabrics’ smoothness and roughness emotion, which means in the early stage processing of tactile sensation, the rougher fabrics could arouse more attention. In addition, the amplitude of P200 component shows positive correlation with the softness sensation of silk fabrics.

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Evaluation of tactile sensation for fabric handle – evidence from event related potentials10.1108/IJCST-04-2023-0047International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-03-25© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedXiaoxia ZhangJin ZhangPeiyan DuGuohe WangInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyahead-of-printahead-of-print2024-03-2510.1108/IJCST-04-2023-0047https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-04-2023-0047/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited
A review on textile-based humidity sensors for wearable physical monitoringhttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-05-2021-0061/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestThe aim of this review is to present together the studies on textile-based moisture sensors developed using innovative technologies in recent years. The integration levels of the sensors studied with the textile materials are changing. Some research teams have used a combination of printing and textile technologies to produce sensors, while a group of researchers have used traditional technologies such as weaving and embroidery. Others have taken advantage of new technologies such as electro-spinning, polymerization and other techniques. In this way, they tried to combine the good working efficiency of the sensors and the flexibility of the textile. All these approaches are presented in this article. The presentation of the latest technologies used to develop textile sensors together will give researchers an idea about new studies that can be done on highly sensitive and efficient textile-based moisture sensor systems. In this paper humidity sensors have been explained in terms of measuring principle as capacitive and resistive. Then, studies conducted in the last 20 years on the textile-based humidity sensors have been presented in detail. This is a comprehensive review study that presents the latest developments together in this area for researchers.A review on textile-based humidity sensors for wearable physical monitoring
Gülçin Baysal
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print, pp.-

The aim of this review is to present together the studies on textile-based moisture sensors developed using innovative technologies in recent years.

The integration levels of the sensors studied with the textile materials are changing. Some research teams have used a combination of printing and textile technologies to produce sensors, while a group of researchers have used traditional technologies such as weaving and embroidery. Others have taken advantage of new technologies such as electro-spinning, polymerization and other techniques. In this way, they tried to combine the good working efficiency of the sensors and the flexibility of the textile. All these approaches are presented in this article.

The presentation of the latest technologies used to develop textile sensors together will give researchers an idea about new studies that can be done on highly sensitive and efficient textile-based moisture sensor systems.

In this paper humidity sensors have been explained in terms of measuring principle as capacitive and resistive. Then, studies conducted in the last 20 years on the textile-based humidity sensors have been presented in detail. This is a comprehensive review study that presents the latest developments together in this area for researchers.

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A review on textile-based humidity sensors for wearable physical monitoring10.1108/IJCST-05-2021-0061International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-03-14© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedGülçin BaysalInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyahead-of-printahead-of-print2024-03-1410.1108/IJCST-05-2021-0061https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-05-2021-0061/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited
Study on the distribution characteristics of clearance in clothing and influence on pressurehttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-05-2023-0070/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestThe purpose of this paper is to investigate the distribution characteristics of airflow in mine ventilation suits with different pipeline structures when the human body is bent at various angles. On this basis, the stress points are extracted to investigate the pressure variation of a ventilation suit under different ventilation rates and pipeline structures. Based on the three-dimensional human body scanner, portable pressure test and other instruments, a human experiment was conducted in an artificial cabin. The study analyzed and compared the distribution characteristics of clearance under three different pipeline structures, as well as the pressure variation of the ventilation suit. The study found that the clearance in front of two pipeline structures gradually increased in size as the degree of bending increased, and there was minimal clearance in the chest and back. The longitudinal structure exhibits a significant decrease in clearance compared to the spiral structure. The pressure value of the spiral pipeline structure with the same ventilation volume is low, followed by the transverse structure, while the longitudinal structure has the highest pressure value. The increase in clothing pressure value of a spiral pipeline structured ventilation suit with varying ventilation volumes is minimal. The ventilation suit has a promising future as a type of personal protective equipment for mitigating heat damage in mines. It is of great value to study the pipeline structure of the ventilation suit for human comfort.Study on the distribution characteristics of clearance in clothing and influence on pressure
Bo You, Qi Si Wang
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print, pp.-

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the distribution characteristics of airflow in mine ventilation suits with different pipeline structures when the human body is bent at various angles. On this basis, the stress points are extracted to investigate the pressure variation of a ventilation suit under different ventilation rates and pipeline structures.

Based on the three-dimensional human body scanner, portable pressure test and other instruments, a human experiment was conducted in an artificial cabin. The study analyzed and compared the distribution characteristics of clearance under three different pipeline structures, as well as the pressure variation of the ventilation suit.

The study found that the clearance in front of two pipeline structures gradually increased in size as the degree of bending increased, and there was minimal clearance in the chest and back. The longitudinal structure exhibits a significant decrease in clearance compared to the spiral structure. The pressure value of the spiral pipeline structure with the same ventilation volume is low, followed by the transverse structure, while the longitudinal structure has the highest pressure value. The increase in clothing pressure value of a spiral pipeline structured ventilation suit with varying ventilation volumes is minimal.

The ventilation suit has a promising future as a type of personal protective equipment for mitigating heat damage in mines. It is of great value to study the pipeline structure of the ventilation suit for human comfort.

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Study on the distribution characteristics of clearance in clothing and influence on pressure10.1108/IJCST-05-2023-0070International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-03-04© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedBo YouQi Si WangInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyahead-of-printahead-of-print2024-03-0410.1108/IJCST-05-2023-0070https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-05-2023-0070/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited
The effect of fabric structure on the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock weft-knitted fabricshttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-05-2023-0073/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestPilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the case of knitted fabrics. Since, these fabric features are affected by fabric structure the aim of present research is to investigate how utilizing miss stitches and tuck stitches in the fabric structure for design purposes will influence the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock weft-knitted fabrics. In this research, interlock fabrics with different number of miss or tuck stitches on successive Wales were produced and pilling performance and abrasion resistance of the fabrics were investigated. The results revealed that increasing the number of miss/tuck stitches on successive Wales decreases the abrasion resistance and enhances the pilling tendency of the fabric. The presence of miss/tuck stitches on both sides of the fabric improves the abrasion resistance and pilling performance of the fabric compared to fabrics containing these stitches on one side of the fabric. Furthermore, the fabric resistance against abrasion and pilling is higher in fabrics consisting of miss stitches compared to fabrics consisting of tuck stitches. The use of tuck and miss stitches in designing the weft-knitted fabrics is a common method for producing fabrics with variety of knit patterns. Since pilling and abrasion resistance of the fabric influence on its appearance and performance, and none of the previous research studied the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock-knitted fabrics from the point of presence of tuck and miss stitches on successive Wales of the fabric, this subject has been surveyed in the present research.The effect of fabric structure on the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock weft-knitted fabrics
Azita Asayesh, Fatemeh Kolahi Mahmoodi
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print, pp.-

Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the case of knitted fabrics. Since, these fabric features are affected by fabric structure the aim of present research is to investigate how utilizing miss stitches and tuck stitches in the fabric structure for design purposes will influence the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock weft-knitted fabrics.

In this research, interlock fabrics with different number of miss or tuck stitches on successive Wales were produced and pilling performance and abrasion resistance of the fabrics were investigated.

The results revealed that increasing the number of miss/tuck stitches on successive Wales decreases the abrasion resistance and enhances the pilling tendency of the fabric. The presence of miss/tuck stitches on both sides of the fabric improves the abrasion resistance and pilling performance of the fabric compared to fabrics containing these stitches on one side of the fabric. Furthermore, the fabric resistance against abrasion and pilling is higher in fabrics consisting of miss stitches compared to fabrics consisting of tuck stitches.

The use of tuck and miss stitches in designing the weft-knitted fabrics is a common method for producing fabrics with variety of knit patterns. Since pilling and abrasion resistance of the fabric influence on its appearance and performance, and none of the previous research studied the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock-knitted fabrics from the point of presence of tuck and miss stitches on successive Wales of the fabric, this subject has been surveyed in the present research.

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The effect of fabric structure on the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock weft-knitted fabrics10.1108/IJCST-05-2023-0073International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-03-05© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedAzita AsayeshFatemeh Kolahi MahmoodiInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyahead-of-printahead-of-print2024-03-0510.1108/IJCST-05-2023-0073https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-05-2023-0073/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited
Status of research on parametric methods for the reconstruction of 3D models of the human body for virtual fittinghttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-06-2023-0086/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestThis paper reviews the pros and cons of different parametric modeling methods, which can provide a theoretical reference for parametric reconstruction of 3D human body models for virtual fitting. In this study, we briefly analyze the mainstream datasets of models of the human body used in the area to provide a foundation for parametric methods of such reconstruction. We then analyze and compare parametric methods of reconstruction based on their use of the following forms of input data: point cloud data, image contours, sizes of features and points representing the joints. Finally, we summarize the advantages and problems of each method as well as the current challenges to the use of parametric modeling in virtual fitting and the opportunities provided by it. Considering the aspects of integrity and accurate of representations of the shape and posture of the body, and the efficiency of the calculation of the requisite parameters, the reconstruction method of human body by integrating orthogonal image contour morphological features, multifeature size constraints and joint point positioning can better represent human body shape, posture and personalized feature size and has higher research value. This article obtains a research thinking for reconstructing a 3D model for virtual fitting that is based on three kinds of data, which is helpful for establishing personalized and high-precision human body models.Status of research on parametric methods for the reconstruction of 3D models of the human body for virtual fitting
Wenqian Feng, Xinrong Li, Jiankun Wang, Jiaqi Wen, Hansen Li
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print, pp.-

This paper reviews the pros and cons of different parametric modeling methods, which can provide a theoretical reference for parametric reconstruction of 3D human body models for virtual fitting.

In this study, we briefly analyze the mainstream datasets of models of the human body used in the area to provide a foundation for parametric methods of such reconstruction. We then analyze and compare parametric methods of reconstruction based on their use of the following forms of input data: point cloud data, image contours, sizes of features and points representing the joints. Finally, we summarize the advantages and problems of each method as well as the current challenges to the use of parametric modeling in virtual fitting and the opportunities provided by it.

Considering the aspects of integrity and accurate of representations of the shape and posture of the body, and the efficiency of the calculation of the requisite parameters, the reconstruction method of human body by integrating orthogonal image contour morphological features, multifeature size constraints and joint point positioning can better represent human body shape, posture and personalized feature size and has higher research value.

This article obtains a research thinking for reconstructing a 3D model for virtual fitting that is based on three kinds of data, which is helpful for establishing personalized and high-precision human body models.

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Status of research on parametric methods for the reconstruction of 3D models of the human body for virtual fitting10.1108/IJCST-06-2023-0086International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-03-08© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedWenqian FengXinrong LiJiankun WangJiaqi WenHansen LiInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyahead-of-printahead-of-print2024-03-0810.1108/IJCST-06-2023-0086https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-06-2023-0086/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited
Investigation of the effect of laser technology on the color of polyester fabricshttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-06-2023-0089/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestThe purpose of this study is to determine the effect of laser treatment on disperse dye-uptake and fastness values of polyester fabrics. Furthermore, it was aimed to evaluate colors directly over the photos of fabric samples instead of color measuring with spectrophotometer which is thought to be useful in terms of online digital color assessment. In this study, 100% polyester (150 denier) single jersey knitted fabrics (weight: 145 g/m2, course density: 15 loops/cm, wale density: 24 loops/cm) were used in the trials. The effect of laser treatments before and after dyeing on color was investigated. Laser treatments were applied to fabrics at different resolutions (20, 25 and 30 dpi) and pixel times (60, 80 and 100 µs) before dyeing. The power of the laser beam was 210 W and the wavelength was 10.6 µm. In order to determine the effect of laser treatment on polyester; FTIR analysis, SEM-EDX analysis and bursting strength tests were applied to untreated and treated fabric samples. It was found that treatments with laser have a significant effect on disperse dye-uptake of polyester fibers, and for this reason laser-treated fabrics were dyed in darker shade. Furthermore, it was determined that the samples treated at 30 dpi started to melt and the fabric was damaged considerably, but the fabrics treated at 20 and 25 dpi were not affected at all. Another result obtained regarding the use of laser technology in polyester fabrics is that if some areas of fabrics are not treated with laser and some other areas are treated with laser at 20 dpi 60 µs and 25 dpi 60 µs, it will be possible to obtain patterns containing three different shades of the same color on the fabric. When the literature is examined, it is seen that there are various studies on the dyeability and patterning of polyester fabrics with disperse dyes by laser technology. As it is known, today color measurement is done digitally using a spectrophotometer. However, when we look at a photograph on computer screens, the colors we see are defined by RGB (red-green-blue) values, while in the spectrophotometer they are defined by L*a*b* (L*: lightness-darkness, a*: redness-greenness, b*: yellowness-blueness) values. Especially when it is desired to produce various design products by creating patterns with laser technology, it would be more useful to show the color directly to the customer on the computer screen and to be able to speak over the same values on the color. For this reason, in this study, the color measurement of the fabric samples was not made with a spectrophotometer, instead, the RGB values obtained from the photographs of the samples were converted into L*a*b* values with MATLAB and interpreted, that is, a digital color evaluation was made on the photographs. Therefore, it is believed that this study will contribute to the literature.Investigation of the effect of laser technology on the color of polyester fabrics
Rıza Atav, Özge Çolakoğlu
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print, pp.-

The purpose of this study is to determine the effect of laser treatment on disperse dye-uptake and fastness values of polyester fabrics. Furthermore, it was aimed to evaluate colors directly over the photos of fabric samples instead of color measuring with spectrophotometer which is thought to be useful in terms of online digital color assessment.

In this study, 100% polyester (150 denier) single jersey knitted fabrics (weight: 145 g/m2, course density: 15 loops/cm, wale density: 24 loops/cm) were used in the trials. The effect of laser treatments before and after dyeing on color was investigated. Laser treatments were applied to fabrics at different resolutions (20, 25 and 30 dpi) and pixel times (60, 80 and 100 µs) before dyeing. The power of the laser beam was 210 W and the wavelength was 10.6 µm. In order to determine the effect of laser treatment on polyester; FTIR analysis, SEM-EDX analysis and bursting strength tests were applied to untreated and treated fabric samples.

It was found that treatments with laser have a significant effect on disperse dye-uptake of polyester fibers, and for this reason laser-treated fabrics were dyed in darker shade. Furthermore, it was determined that the samples treated at 30 dpi started to melt and the fabric was damaged considerably, but the fabrics treated at 20 and 25 dpi were not affected at all. Another result obtained regarding the use of laser technology in polyester fabrics is that if some areas of fabrics are not treated with laser and some other areas are treated with laser at 20 dpi 60 µs and 25 dpi 60 µs, it will be possible to obtain patterns containing three different shades of the same color on the fabric.

When the literature is examined, it is seen that there are various studies on the dyeability and patterning of polyester fabrics with disperse dyes by laser technology. As it is known, today color measurement is done digitally using a spectrophotometer. However, when we look at a photograph on computer screens, the colors we see are defined by RGB (red-green-blue) values, while in the spectrophotometer they are defined by L*a*b* (L*: lightness-darkness, a*: redness-greenness, b*: yellowness-blueness) values. Especially when it is desired to produce various design products by creating patterns with laser technology, it would be more useful to show the color directly to the customer on the computer screen and to be able to speak over the same values on the color. For this reason, in this study, the color measurement of the fabric samples was not made with a spectrophotometer, instead, the RGB values obtained from the photographs of the samples were converted into L*a*b* values with MATLAB and interpreted, that is, a digital color evaluation was made on the photographs. Therefore, it is believed that this study will contribute to the literature.

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Investigation of the effect of laser technology on the color of polyester fabrics10.1108/IJCST-06-2023-0089International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-03-29© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedRıza AtavÖzge ÇolakoğluInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyahead-of-printahead-of-print2024-03-2910.1108/IJCST-06-2023-0089https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-06-2023-0089/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited
Development and application of temperature-sensing underwear for breast monitoringhttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-07-2023-0106/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestBreast cancer has become the largest cancer in the world today. Health problems for women with breast cancer need to be addressed urgently. This study aims to select the best method for preparing temperature-sensitive sports underwear, and to verify the feasibility of using K-type thermocouple threads in underwear fabrics. In the experiments, two samples were designed for temperature-sensitive performance tests and the effects produced by different outer layer structures were investigated. In the second step, K-type thermocouple wires were integrated into sports underwear. The comfort and feasibility of the temperature-sensitive underwear were investigated. It was finally verified to obtain the best comfort and temperature-sensing performance of K-type thermocouple filaments integrated into sports underwear with plain stitching. The underwear has a certain prospect for the application of smart apparel based on breast cancer health monitoring, which is of some significance for monitoring smart apparel.Development and application of temperature-sensing underwear for breast monitoring
Yu Huang, Xiaofen Ji, Lina Zhai, Francisca Margarita Ocran
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print, pp.-

Breast cancer has become the largest cancer in the world today. Health problems for women with breast cancer need to be addressed urgently. This study aims to select the best method for preparing temperature-sensitive sports underwear, and to verify the feasibility of using K-type thermocouple threads in underwear fabrics.

In the experiments, two samples were designed for temperature-sensitive performance tests and the effects produced by different outer layer structures were investigated. In the second step, K-type thermocouple wires were integrated into sports underwear. The comfort and feasibility of the temperature-sensitive underwear were investigated.

It was finally verified to obtain the best comfort and temperature-sensing performance of K-type thermocouple filaments integrated into sports underwear with plain stitching.

The underwear has a certain prospect for the application of smart apparel based on breast cancer health monitoring, which is of some significance for monitoring smart apparel.

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Development and application of temperature-sensing underwear for breast monitoring10.1108/IJCST-07-2023-0106International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-03-25© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedYu HuangXiaofen JiLina ZhaiFrancisca Margarita OcranInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyahead-of-printahead-of-print2024-03-2510.1108/IJCST-07-2023-0106https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-07-2023-0106/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited
Clothing image attribute editing based on generative adversarial network, with reference to an upper garmenthttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-09-2023-0129/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestNowadays, artificial intelligence (AI) technology has demonstrated extensive applications in the field of art design. Attribute editing is an important means to realize clothing style and color design via computer language, which aims to edit and control the garment image based on the specified target attributes while preserving other details from the original image. The current image attribute editing model often generates images containing missing or redundant attributes. To address the problem, this paper aims for a novel design method utilizing the Fashion-attribute generative adversarial network (AttGAN) model was proposed for image attribute editing specifically tailored to women’s blouses. The proposed design method primarily focuses on optimizing the feature extraction network and loss function. To enhance the feature extraction capability of the model, an increase in the number of layers in the feature extraction network was implemented, and the structure similarity index measure (SSIM) loss function was employed to ensure the independent attributes of the original image were consistent. The characteristic-preserving virtual try-on network (CP_VTON) dataset was used for train-ing to enable the editing of sleeve length and color specifically for women’s blouse. The experimental results demonstrate that the optimization model’s generated outputs have significantly reduced problems related to missing attributes or visual redundancy. Through a comparative analysis of the numerical changes in the SSIM and peak signal-to-noise ratio (PSNR) before and after the model refinement, it was observed that the improved SSIM increased substantially by 27.4%, and the PSNR increased by 2.8%, serving as empirical evidence of the effectiveness of incorporating the SSIM loss function. The proposed algorithm provides a promising tool for precise image editing of women’s blouses based on the GAN. This introduces a new approach to eliminate semantic expression errors in image editing, thereby contributing to the development of AI in clothing design.Clothing image attribute editing based on generative adversarial network, with reference to an upper garment
Wei-Zhen Wang, Hong-Mei Xiao, Yuan Fang
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print, pp.-

Nowadays, artificial intelligence (AI) technology has demonstrated extensive applications in the field of art design. Attribute editing is an important means to realize clothing style and color design via computer language, which aims to edit and control the garment image based on the specified target attributes while preserving other details from the original image. The current image attribute editing model often generates images containing missing or redundant attributes. To address the problem, this paper aims for a novel design method utilizing the Fashion-attribute generative adversarial network (AttGAN) model was proposed for image attribute editing specifically tailored to women’s blouses.

The proposed design method primarily focuses on optimizing the feature extraction network and loss function. To enhance the feature extraction capability of the model, an increase in the number of layers in the feature extraction network was implemented, and the structure similarity index measure (SSIM) loss function was employed to ensure the independent attributes of the original image were consistent. The characteristic-preserving virtual try-on network (CP_VTON) dataset was used for train-ing to enable the editing of sleeve length and color specifically for women’s blouse.

The experimental results demonstrate that the optimization model’s generated outputs have significantly reduced problems related to missing attributes or visual redundancy. Through a comparative analysis of the numerical changes in the SSIM and peak signal-to-noise ratio (PSNR) before and after the model refinement, it was observed that the improved SSIM increased substantially by 27.4%, and the PSNR increased by 2.8%, serving as empirical evidence of the effectiveness of incorporating the SSIM loss function.

The proposed algorithm provides a promising tool for precise image editing of women’s blouses based on the GAN. This introduces a new approach to eliminate semantic expression errors in image editing, thereby contributing to the development of AI in clothing design.

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Clothing image attribute editing based on generative adversarial network, with reference to an upper garment10.1108/IJCST-09-2023-0129International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-03-01© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedWei-Zhen WangHong-Mei XiaoYuan FangInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyahead-of-printahead-of-print2024-03-0110.1108/IJCST-09-2023-0129https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-09-2023-0129/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited
AnMePa: development of a new method for preparing trousers pattern by using the antropometric measurement systemhttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-09-2023-0141/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestThis study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement system. The newly developed pattern-making system in this study will be called the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa). It is aimed at producing trousers that are more fitting to the body, thanks to this pattern-making system. In this research, four pattern-making systems used in many parts of the world were compared with the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa) with regard to the overall appearance and body fit of trousers prepared according to these systems. 10 virtual mannequins (VM) with different adult female body measurements were created, and trousers patterns were prepared for these mannequins. The trousers’ patterns were made and dressed on the mannequins in a 3D virtual dressing system. The body fit of the virtual garments was evaluated by five experts. The scores given by the experts were evaluated using the fuzzy logic method. According to the results, it is seen that the new basic trousers pattern developed by utilizing the anthropometric measurement system, AnMePa, provides the best body fit among the basic trousers patterns created according to the other examined pattern-making systems. The combination of 3D virtual dressing and fuzzy logic in the evaluation of garment body fit is considered an innovative method for the future of fashion design and production. In the developed AnMePa, unlike the existing pattern-making systems, values that can be associated with the body measurements of individuals in a way that could be suitable for each community were used instead of constant values in the pattern-making process. Furthermore, the integration of 3D virtual fitting and fuzzy logic in assessing garment fit is considered a pioneering approach with significant implications for the future landscape of fashion design and production.AnMePa: development of a new method for preparing trousers pattern by using the antropometric measurement system
Arzu Şen Kılıç, Can Ünal, Ziynet Ondogan
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print, pp.-

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement system. The newly developed pattern-making system in this study will be called the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa). It is aimed at producing trousers that are more fitting to the body, thanks to this pattern-making system.

In this research, four pattern-making systems used in many parts of the world were compared with the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa) with regard to the overall appearance and body fit of trousers prepared according to these systems. 10 virtual mannequins (VM) with different adult female body measurements were created, and trousers patterns were prepared for these mannequins. The trousers’ patterns were made and dressed on the mannequins in a 3D virtual dressing system. The body fit of the virtual garments was evaluated by five experts. The scores given by the experts were evaluated using the fuzzy logic method.

According to the results, it is seen that the new basic trousers pattern developed by utilizing the anthropometric measurement system, AnMePa, provides the best body fit among the basic trousers patterns created according to the other examined pattern-making systems. The combination of 3D virtual dressing and fuzzy logic in the evaluation of garment body fit is considered an innovative method for the future of fashion design and production.

In the developed AnMePa, unlike the existing pattern-making systems, values that can be associated with the body measurements of individuals in a way that could be suitable for each community were used instead of constant values in the pattern-making process. Furthermore, the integration of 3D virtual fitting and fuzzy logic in assessing garment fit is considered a pioneering approach with significant implications for the future landscape of fashion design and production.

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AnMePa: development of a new method for preparing trousers pattern by using the antropometric measurement system10.1108/IJCST-09-2023-0141International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-03-15© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedArzu Şen KılıçCan ÜnalZiynet OndoganInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyahead-of-printahead-of-print2024-03-1510.1108/IJCST-09-2023-0141https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-09-2023-0141/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited
Literature analysis on material selection and evaluation for firefighter gloveshttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-09-2023-0144/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestFirefighter Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is the only barrier between the firefighter and hazardous environment. Gloves are a crucial component of the multi-component PPE. Over time the gloves have reduced the intensity of hand injuries, yet further improvement in terms of material selection and glove design is required to strike the balance between protection and comfort. Focusing on the material aspect, the purpose of this study is to present literature analysis on material selection and testing for firefighter gloves. The study conducted a literature analysis on material selection and characterization of firefighter PPE. The review summarizes and evaluates past work addressing the characterization of firefighter gloves in accordance with NFPA 1971 requirements and points out found research gaps to aid with foundation of future research. The study summarizes several research works to inform readers about the material selection and characterization of firefighter gloves. Based on the analyzed literature, the study resulted in material specification sheets for firefighter gloves. The developed material specification sheets provide information in terms of crucial material properties to be incorporated for accurate functioning of firefighter gloves, testing methods to validate those material properties and materials from analyzed literature exhibiting desired properties. With large research addressing firefighter PPE, only limited studies focus specifically on gloves. Thus, this study provides a literature analysis covering material selection and testing for gloves. A consolidated firefighter gloves material specification document, which does not appear to be available in the literature, will provide a foundation for the development and characterization of firefighter gloves to better serve the functions along with ensuring user comfort.Literature analysis on material selection and evaluation for firefighter gloves
Saloni Purandare, Chunhui Xiang
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print, pp.-

Firefighter Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is the only barrier between the firefighter and hazardous environment. Gloves are a crucial component of the multi-component PPE. Over time the gloves have reduced the intensity of hand injuries, yet further improvement in terms of material selection and glove design is required to strike the balance between protection and comfort. Focusing on the material aspect, the purpose of this study is to present literature analysis on material selection and testing for firefighter gloves.

The study conducted a literature analysis on material selection and characterization of firefighter PPE. The review summarizes and evaluates past work addressing the characterization of firefighter gloves in accordance with NFPA 1971 requirements and points out found research gaps to aid with foundation of future research.

The study summarizes several research works to inform readers about the material selection and characterization of firefighter gloves. Based on the analyzed literature, the study resulted in material specification sheets for firefighter gloves. The developed material specification sheets provide information in terms of crucial material properties to be incorporated for accurate functioning of firefighter gloves, testing methods to validate those material properties and materials from analyzed literature exhibiting desired properties.

With large research addressing firefighter PPE, only limited studies focus specifically on gloves. Thus, this study provides a literature analysis covering material selection and testing for gloves. A consolidated firefighter gloves material specification document, which does not appear to be available in the literature, will provide a foundation for the development and characterization of firefighter gloves to better serve the functions along with ensuring user comfort.

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Literature analysis on material selection and evaluation for firefighter gloves10.1108/IJCST-09-2023-0144International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-03-05© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedSaloni PurandareChunhui XiangInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyahead-of-printahead-of-print2024-03-0510.1108/IJCST-09-2023-0144https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-09-2023-0144/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited
Influence of blend ratio of cotton and Arecanut fibers on yarn propertieshttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-10-2023-0154/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestThe purpose of the study is to optimize the blending ratio of Arecanut and cotton fibers to create yarn with the best quality for various applications, particularly home furnishings. The study aims to determine the effect of different blend ratios on the physical and mechanical properties of the yarn. The study involves blending Arecanut and cotton fibers in various ratios (90:10, 75:25, 50:50, 25:75 and 10:90) at two different yarn counts (10/1 and 5/1). Various physical and mechanical properties of the blended yarn are analyzed, including unevenness, coefficient of mass variation (cvm%), imperfection, hairiness, breaking strength, elongation, tenacity and breaking work. The research findings suggest that the blend ratio of 10:90 (10% cotton and 90% Arecanut fiber) produced the best results in terms of physical and mechanical properties for both yarn counts. This blend ratio resulted in reduced unevenness, cvm% and imperfection, while also exhibiting good mechanical properties such as breaking strength, elongation, tenacity and breaking work. The blend with a higher concentration of cotton generally showed better properties due to the coarseness of Arecanut fiber. As the goal of the study was to determine the best blend ratio that included the most Arecanut fiber based on its physical and mechanical properties, which is suitable for home furnishing applications, 75:25 Areca cotton blend ratio of yarn count 5/1 proved to be the best. The study acknowledges that Arecanut fiber must be blended with other commercially used fibers like cotton due to its coarseness. While the study provides insights into optimizing blend ratios for home furnishings and packaging, further research may be needed to make the material suitable for clothing applications. The research has practical implications for industries interested in utilizing Arecanut and cotton blends for various applications, such as home furnishings and packaging materials. It suggests that specific blend ratios can result in yarn with desirable properties for these purposes. The study mentions that the increased use of Arecanut fibers can benefit the growers of Arecanut, potentially providing economic opportunities for communities engaged in Arecanut farming. The research explores the utilization of Arecanut fibers, an underutilized resource, in combination with cotton to create sustainable yarn. It assesses various blend ratios and their impact on yarn properties, contributing to the understanding of eco-friendly textile materials.Influence of blend ratio of cotton and Arecanut fibers on yarn properties
Georgy Sunny, T. Palani Rajan
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print, pp.-

The purpose of the study is to optimize the blending ratio of Arecanut and cotton fibers to create yarn with the best quality for various applications, particularly home furnishings. The study aims to determine the effect of different blend ratios on the physical and mechanical properties of the yarn.

The study involves blending Arecanut and cotton fibers in various ratios (90:10, 75:25, 50:50, 25:75 and 10:90) at two different yarn counts (10/1 and 5/1). Various physical and mechanical properties of the blended yarn are analyzed, including unevenness, coefficient of mass variation (cvm%), imperfection, hairiness, breaking strength, elongation, tenacity and breaking work.

The research findings suggest that the blend ratio of 10:90 (10% cotton and 90% Arecanut fiber) produced the best results in terms of physical and mechanical properties for both yarn counts. This blend ratio resulted in reduced unevenness, cvm% and imperfection, while also exhibiting good mechanical properties such as breaking strength, elongation, tenacity and breaking work. The blend with a higher concentration of cotton generally showed better properties due to the coarseness of Arecanut fiber. As the goal of the study was to determine the best blend ratio that included the most Arecanut fiber based on its physical and mechanical properties, which is suitable for home furnishing applications, 75:25 Areca cotton blend ratio of yarn count 5/1 proved to be the best.

The study acknowledges that Arecanut fiber must be blended with other commercially used fibers like cotton due to its coarseness. While the study provides insights into optimizing blend ratios for home furnishings and packaging, further research may be needed to make the material suitable for clothing applications.

The research has practical implications for industries interested in utilizing Arecanut and cotton blends for various applications, such as home furnishings and packaging materials. It suggests that specific blend ratios can result in yarn with desirable properties for these purposes.

The study mentions that the increased use of Arecanut fibers can benefit the growers of Arecanut, potentially providing economic opportunities for communities engaged in Arecanut farming.

The research explores the utilization of Arecanut fibers, an underutilized resource, in combination with cotton to create sustainable yarn. It assesses various blend ratios and their impact on yarn properties, contributing to the understanding of eco-friendly textile materials.

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Influence of blend ratio of cotton and Arecanut fibers on yarn properties10.1108/IJCST-10-2023-0154International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-03-08© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedGeorgy SunnyT. Palani RajanInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyahead-of-printahead-of-print2024-03-0810.1108/IJCST-10-2023-0154https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-10-2023-0154/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited
Predicting the thermal protective performance of flame-retardant fabric based on machine learninghttps://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-12-2022-0175/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatestThe purpose of this study is to predict the thermal protective performance (TPP) of flame-retardant fabric more economically using machine learning and analyze the factors affecting the TPP using model visualization. A total of 13 machine learning models were trained by collecting 414 datasets of typical flame-retardant fabric from current literature. The optimal performance model was used for feature importance ranking and correlation variable analysis through model visualization. Five models with better performance were screened, all of which showed R2 greater than 0.96 and root mean squared error less than 3.0. Heat map results revealed that the TPP of fabrics differed significantly under different types of thermal exposure. The effect of fabric weight was more apparent in the flame or low thermal radiation environment. The increase in fabric weight, fabric thickness, air gap width and relative humidity of the air gap improved the TPP of the fabric. The findings suggested that the visual analysis method of machine learning can intuitively understand the change trend and range of second-degree burn time under the influence of multiple variables. The established models can be used to predict the TPP of fabrics, providing a reference for researchers to carry out relevant research. The findings of this study contribute directional insights for optimizing the structure of thermal protective clothing, and introduce innovative perspectives and methodologies for advancing heat transfer modeling in thermal protective clothing.Predicting the thermal protective performance of flame-retardant fabric based on machine learning
Boyi Li, Miao Tian, Xiaohan Liu, Jun Li, Yun Su, Jiaming Ni
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. ahead-of-print, No. ahead-of-print, pp.-

The purpose of this study is to predict the thermal protective performance (TPP) of flame-retardant fabric more economically using machine learning and analyze the factors affecting the TPP using model visualization.

A total of 13 machine learning models were trained by collecting 414 datasets of typical flame-retardant fabric from current literature. The optimal performance model was used for feature importance ranking and correlation variable analysis through model visualization.

Five models with better performance were screened, all of which showed R2 greater than 0.96 and root mean squared error less than 3.0. Heat map results revealed that the TPP of fabrics differed significantly under different types of thermal exposure. The effect of fabric weight was more apparent in the flame or low thermal radiation environment. The increase in fabric weight, fabric thickness, air gap width and relative humidity of the air gap improved the TPP of the fabric.

The findings suggested that the visual analysis method of machine learning can intuitively understand the change trend and range of second-degree burn time under the influence of multiple variables. The established models can be used to predict the TPP of fabrics, providing a reference for researchers to carry out relevant research.

The findings of this study contribute directional insights for optimizing the structure of thermal protective clothing, and introduce innovative perspectives and methodologies for advancing heat transfer modeling in thermal protective clothing.

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Predicting the thermal protective performance of flame-retardant fabric based on machine learning10.1108/IJCST-12-2022-0175International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology2024-02-12© 2024 Emerald Publishing LimitedBoyi LiMiao TianXiaohan LiuJun LiYun SuJiaming NiInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technologyahead-of-printahead-of-print2024-02-1210.1108/IJCST-12-2022-0175https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJCST-12-2022-0175/full/html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=rss_journalLatest© 2024 Emerald Publishing Limited