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Illuminative knitted textiles: machine knitting with polymeric optical fibres (POFs)

Ngan Yi Kitty Lam (Laboratory for Artificial Intelligence in Design, New Territories, Hong Kong)
Jeanne Tan (Laboratory for Artificial Intelligence in Design, New Territories, Hong Kong and School of Fashion and Textiles, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong, China)
Anne Toomey (School of Design, Royal College of Art, London, UK)
Ka Chun Jimmy Cheuk (Laboratory for Artificial Intelligence in Design, New Territories, Hong Kong)

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

ISSN: 1560-6074

Article publication date: 5 August 2022

Issue publication date: 10 April 2024

160

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to investigate how different knitted structures affect the illuminative effect of polymeric optical fibres (POFs).

Design/methodology/approach

Knit prototypes were constructed using a 7-gauge industrial hand flat knitting machine. The textile prototype swatches developed in this study tested POF illumination in three types of knitting structures: intervallic knit and float stitch structures; POF inlaid into double plain and full cardigan structures; and double plain and partial knitting structures. The illuminative effects of the POFs in seven prototype swatches were analysed and compared.

Findings

It is possible to use an industrial hand flat knitting machine to knit POFs. Longer floats expose more POFs, which boosts illumination but limits the textile’s horizontal stretchability. The openness of the full cardigan structure maximises POF exposure and contributes to even illumination. The partial knitting in different sections achieves the most complete physical integration of POFs into the knitted textiles but constrains the horizontal stretchability of the textiles.

Practical implications

The integration of POFs into knitted textiles provides a functional illuminative effect. Applications include but are not limited to fashion, architecture and interior design.

Originality/value

This study is novel, as it investigates new POF knitted textiles with different loop structures. This study examines how knit stitches affect POFs in intervallic knit and float stitch, inlaid POF double knit, double plain and partial knit and the illuminative effects of the knitted textile.

Keywords

Acknowledgements

The authors would like to thank Le Baron International Limited for their generous support and material sponsorship for this study.Funding: This research is funded by the Laboratory for Artificial Intelligence in Design (Project Code: RP3-5) under the InnoHK Research Clusters, Hong Kong Special Administrative Region Government.

Citation

Lam, N.Y.K., Tan, J., Toomey, A. and Cheuk, K.C.J. (2024), "Illuminative knitted textiles: machine knitting with polymeric optical fibres (POFs)", Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, Vol. 28 No. 2, pp. 317-335. https://doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-12-2021-0144

Publisher

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Emerald Publishing Limited

Copyright © 2022, Emerald Publishing Limited

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