A case study of the use of objective measurement technologies for textile trading

Citation

Stylios, G. (1999), "A case study of the use of objective measurement technologies for textile trading", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 11 No. 4. https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst.1999.05811daa.001

A case study of the use of objective measurement technologies for textile trading

A case study of the use of objective measurement technologies for textile trading

I have reported in the past about Yorkshire's White Rose Initiative which is a partnership between companies in the wool worsted and woollen trade concentrated in West Yorkshire viz-á-vis The White Rose, since it grows in this area of the UK.

The White Rose Initiative began in late 1996 as a result of an earlier trade mission to Japan and Italy by representatives of several local wool textile companies. This initiative tries to build on the high reputation in tradition and quality, of UK fabrics, by innovating with new textures and blends. Technical innovation and working together is one of the objectives of the group, which is marketing its products under the Ideal Cloth Charts certifying the quality and performance of all White Rose fabrics. Close collaboration with Japan ensures new ways of trading under the Ideal concept.

Fabrics are engineered, with the support of the University of Bradford, to the requirements of consumers, retailers and garment makers, through the use of objective measurement technologies. The White Rose presents an opportunity for joint solutions through a pooling of resources.

As it is seen in Figure 1, the Ideal Cloth Chart is not only a tool to achieve product design and performance in manufacturing, but also a marketing tool to ensure customers that they buy a quality product. This concept is powerful and produces innovative fabrics for the White Rose Group of partner companies.

Figure 1 Ideal cloth chart

Some examples of the last collection of ideal fabrics promoted at PremiÉre Vision on 11-14 March 1999 in Paris for Spring/Summer 2000 are given below:

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  Wool/Tencel: desirable for mens- or ladieswear in a clear cut finish. Achievable with a 50/50 Tencel and fine merino wool mix, incorporating small amounts of alpaca. The peachskin qualities of Tencel provide a softness which is complemented by the merino wool.

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  Wool/slub linen: mainly for ladieswear, the slub linen provides interesting surface texture and the fabric is available in a variety of shades.

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  Classic suiting: desirable for menswear in traditional colours. Achievable with 100 per cent merino wool or 80 percent fine merino wool with 20 per cent baby alpaca, to provide a classic all season British look.

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  Soft: desirable for jacketing and suitings. Achievable with mixtures of British wool softened by fine merino wool, again providing an all season British look.

The following companies were involved in the current collection;

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  Spinners: Jeremiah Ambler, Bulmer & Lumb Group, Sylkay Textiles Ltd, Tencel Applications, William White & Sons plc and Willey and Pearson.

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  Dyers and Finishers: Thomas Birkhead Ltd, John Gladstone & Co. Ltd and W.T. Johnson.

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  Weavers: Reuben Gaunt & Son Ltd, Hield Brothers Ltd and Ibatex Ltd.

Plate 1 shows the range of Spring/Summer 2000 ideal products being produced.

With more and more companies using objective measurement and with objective measurement instrumentation standards being discussed at the European level, this technology will have to be used by everybody in the textile trade community in the new millennium.

Plate 1 Range of Spring/Summer 2000 ideal products

George StyliosEditor-in-Chief