Technical textiles are known for their performance and functionality whilst traditional textiles for their aesthetics! Are we right to accept this distinction? or convergence of these two distinct sectors is now imminent?

Citation

Stylios, G.K. (2003), "Technical textiles are known for their performance and functionality whilst traditional textiles for their aesthetics! Are we right to accept this distinction? or convergence of these two distinct sectors is now imminent?", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 15 No. 1. https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst.2003.05815aaa.001

Technical textiles are known for their performance and functionality whilst traditional textiles for their aesthetics! Are we right to accept this distinction? or convergence of these two distinct sectors is now imminent?

Technical textiles are known for their performance and functionality whilst traditional textiles for their aesthetics! Are we right to accept this distinction? or convergence of these two distinct sectors is now imminent?

In the last few years the technical textiles sector has seen an upsurge in scope and possibility, especially in the developed countries. It is realised that "technical textiles" which are primarily the products marketed for their performance and functionality, in differentiation from "traditional textiles" which are marketed for their aesthetics. Technical textiles are believed to provide the competitive advantage needed for transforming from an industry competing on price to one competing on technical innovation. I wonder whether or not this is a very simplistic assumption, which will wrongly signpost the future development of this industry.

I have been fortunate to work with "traditional" textile companies through the DTI funded White Rose Initiative "Ideal British Wool Congress" in which we have been producing over 5 years (1996-2000) yarns and fabrics for high street clothing. These developments have had all credentials to be classed as "technical" because of the engineering performance effects i.e. PVC coated shower resistant suits; Timothy Everest, or highly aesthetic fabrics i.e. mechanical stretch wool blends with soft handle and high drapability; Finer Wool Ltd. In the last 3 years I am more involved with "technical" textiles through the TechniTex Faraday Partnership because I believe that textiles have so much more to offer as flexible engineering materials to other industries as well. I see that textile base materials will be substituting rigid structures because with the right knowledge of how to engineer them they can outperform most traditional engineering materials. I have never been comfortable, though, with the formal and widely accepted definition of technical against traditional textiles. I have been therefore, waiting for the opportunity to put forward a good argument for changing the perception and consequently the definition. It so happened that new evidence has now strengthen my belief.

Two of my research students R. Winchester and Y. Chan [1] recently went to the Pitti Filati Exhibition in Florence which is regarded as the place at the forefront of trend predictions in fashion textiles. With the Spring/Summer 2003 as the focus of this show we were dealing not with futuristic but realistic textile developments for our immediate future. The new developments exhibited at this show and my own experience in developing new yarns and fabrics for Premier Vision between years 1996-2000 have provoked me to write this editorial.

Most of the forthcoming new fabrics try to inspire the utilisation of innovative new yarns combined with different fibres and in various fabric design techniques as shown in Plate 1.

Plate 1

Let us consider some new developments for day to day textiles as proposed by different companies at Pitti Filati for 2003 (Plate 2).

The spinning group Schoeller, was one of the key companies at the show exhibiting innovative new textiles. S-Shield® is a new intelligent material created by Schoeller. It is a high-performance worsted spun yarn, which protects the body against electronic radiation by incorporating very fine stainless steel fibres which are being extruded 8mm in diameter. These fibres can be mixed at different ranges of 3-50 per cent, depending on application, with wool, polyester, aramide, viscose or polyamide.

Plate 2

"Flash and Light" are two new types of yarn, one is fluorescent the other is reflective. The fluorescent yarn emits light so that it glows when in the dark. "Flash and Light" is a reflective yarn constructed by crystals embedded into its structure. The reflection is produced by the light falling on the crystals. The intended garment application is for club/night wear (Plate 3).

Plate 3

Another type of new yarn is one called "High Resistance Range" which consists of water and dirt repellent yarns as well as flame resistant yarns. Coatings such as Teflon® and Scotguard® are applied on the fibres and act as a protective film, which can repel water and dirt. The coatings are invisible to the naked eye and they are resistant to washing. They are only applied to the fibres, enabling the yarn to move within the fabric in order to maintain good fabric breathability in a garment. Zirpro flame-blocker® is a wool yarn, with a flame resistant finish. It is designed not to catch flame whilst maintaining the good handle properties of wool (Plate 4).

Plate 4

"Extended Function" is another range of new yarn which consists of Polycolon® and Outlast®. Polycolon® allows the body to stay drier for longer periods under heavy body perspiration. Polycolon® conducts moisture to the absorbent surface layers, being about 40 per cent lighter than cotton. It is said to be tough wearing with good colourfastness rendering it ideal for sportswear. Outlast® can keep the body temperature at the correct level. The tiny pellets embedded directly in the fibre enable the fabric to absorb, store and release body heat (Plate 5).

Plate 5

The "Smell Protection" range includes "Smellkiller®" and "Sanitized®". Smellkiller can get rid of any unpleasant odours such as smoke, oily smell as well as perspiration. Light is used to stimulate the yarn by triggering a photocatalytic reaction to release the deodorising material in the fibre. It is claimed that a small amount of light such as a 30W bulb can stimulate the yarn to absorb almost any unpleasant odours. Sanitized® is a yarn which has an antibacterial effect. Its development was encouraged by the difficulty of eliminating bacteria from clothing. Sanitized® works by blocking the cell walls of the bacteria and cause them to starve, keeping the garment fresh and hygienic (Plate 6).

Plate 6

Tintoria di Quaregna s.r.l. has produced a range of finishes that give yarns unique performance qualities. "Stardust®" is a yarn finish, which gives the yarn a bright "twinkling" finished effect. The yarn's twinkling effect is better seen under bright lights, as when in the sun or under halogen lighting. This finishing effect can be applied to almost any yarn and can be washed away easily using a delicate washing programme. "Essence®" is another new finishing effect developed by Tintoria di Quaregna s.r.l. This finish permits the yarn to be perfumed by the customer's choice of fragrance, and it is claimed that it can be applied to all fibres (Plate 7).

Plate 7

DuPont's Teflon® can now be applied to all types of yarn. The Teflon® coating protects fabrics from water, dirt and wet stains by coating each fibre with an invisible barrier. The Teflon® coating is invisible, it does not affect the yarn visually or physically it is breathable and has easy care properties.

When you combine these new possibilities of fibres and yarns with 3D weaving or knitting technology great new possibilities beyond traditional garments can be explored. An example is Shima Seika Mfg., Ltd which is one of the leading manufacturers of computerised whole glove and whole garment flatbed knitting machines. Their machines are capable of achieving a range of open and close structures, 3D effects and contrasting surfaces, to whole garments. The latest WHOLEGARMENT® machines can produce a wide range of entire garments including scarves, hats, jumpers, dresses, skirts, cardigans, tights, legwarmers and socks. If one combines those new developments in yarn with 3D knitting you can make exciting new textiles for garments. Would you call these textiles traditional or technical. Some examples are shown in Plate 8.

Plate 8

These are just a few of the new possibilities aimed at the traditional textile industry for 2003. It makes me wonder whether we ought to rethink again the difference between technical and traditional textiles. My own view is that the year 2003 has broken the barrier that kept traditional and technical textiles separated and is claimed convergence. At the start of a new era for the textile industry let us not repeat the history by fragmenting and compartmentalising it and let it develop through its inherent diversity.

George K StyliosEditor-in-chief

Note1.  Y Chan and R Winchester are acknowledged for providing a report on their visit to Pitti Filati, extracts of which are contained in this editorial.